Author Topic: Getting An Edge :Part 2  (Read 720 times)

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Offline woodtick

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Getting An Edge :Part 2
« on: May 25, 2003, 07:50:19 PM »
I want to apologize for starting a new thread for this! I have an old Dial-up computer system and it don't seem to want to bring up the "reply" box. And it will only bring up the 'New Topic" box whenever the mood strikes it! LOL!!.
Joel : I followed your advice from a previous post about "polishing blades". Using emery paper, The blade turned out really well. Till it came time to sharpen it
I best start from the beginning.: I took an old wore out axe file(brand unknown),and cut it to the rough shape with a handheld 'mini grinder". Then I ground it to shape on a bench grinder. I took my time and ground it slowly so it didn't overheat, and that is about all I did to it. No special heat treatment or anything.

Joel : after your reply to my latest question about sharpening, I took a closer look at my blade and found that I did have it ground plenty thick. So I guess it's back to the "ole grind stone"  (pun intended) This is my first time making a knife so all ADVICE is welcome.

Scott :
  :oops:

Offline Joel

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Getting An Edge :Part 2
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2003, 03:34:00 AM »
Scott, glad I'm not the only one having problems; I have to sometimes hit stop/reload a bunch of times just to look at a post, let alone do a reply.
   Glad you didn't overheat the steel.  Most files are made out of either W-1 or W-2, a simple carbon steel, although W-2 has a tiny bit of tungsten in it.  Both are a Royal Pain in the Butt to grind.  They tear up grinding belts in a most tearful manner.  Trying to abrade a steel designed to resist abrasion is somethin' of a challenge.  They also make road grader blades, plows, loader buckets etc out of the stuff.
   Guess you must have already put a handle on it, so it can't be tempered; which is too bad.  Tempering is important, your file blade will take an edge, but probably won't hold it for long.  It's probaby too brittle, and thin(as in edges)brittle things are delicate in nature.  Although, an old file like that, you never know.
Let me know how it does after you thin it some.

Offline woodtick

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Getting An Edge :Part 2
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2003, 04:05:39 PM »
Joel, I ground the blade down pretty much as thin as I want to take it. I want it sharp enough to clean and skin a deer etc. but not so thin that its going to be to fragile to be used as an all around knife for deerhunting and for use as a trapline knife. I believe it would take a better edge then before but I doubt that it would've held it.
I have the handle made but it isn't  assembled yet so I can give it the heat treatment.
To clearify a few things, how do you get your oil to the right temperature? And if you heat the blade just once do you dip it in the oil just once? Does it matter what temperature your freezer is or did you just say 0 degrees F as an example? Shouldn't I just be able to throw it in my regular household freezer for 3 days?

Scott : :?

Offline Joel

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Getting An Edge :Part 2
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2003, 03:19:26 AM »
Scott,
   'Bout any old metal container that'll hold enough oil that you can completely immerse the blade into up to the tang will work.  I never worried about the tang, since I soften it to blue anyway.  For most of my blades, used an old coffee can.  Stuck it on the stove on low, since you only want to heat the oil to 140 F.  If that makes you nervous, then place the oil container into another container holding water; like a double boiler concept.  Heat it thataway.  To check for temperature I've used an old thermometer from a milk pastuerizer, a soil thermometer, and a candy/jelly therometer.  Depends if you're married or not.  If for some reason heating the oil inside won't work, an old coleman camp stove works.  Or some such.  Basically I heat the blade at 400 F until it turns a light gold "straw" color.  That can take anywhere from around 40 minutes to 2 hours depending on how thick your blade is and how accurate your oven temperature guage is.  I've a separate one that you stick in the oven.  When it reaches that temperature, I grab it with a pair of pliers and plunge it straight down into the warm oil,which by the way is moved outside just before I do the quench.  Once all the hissing/bubbling stops, I usually let the blade cool down in the oil until it's just warm.  Then wash it off with dishsoap and stick it in your fridge.  Zero degrees is optimum, but anything below freezing works.  If your freezer temp isn't at 0 F(mine is), then you might want to add a couple of days to the freezing.  Any other questions, feel free.