Author Topic: new rifle break-in (Read 3689 times)

karl · « **on:** May 14, 2003, 01:50:41 PM »

I just bought a Tikka in 338 win. I was wondering what advice you have for breaking-in the barrel. Any other information on this rifle would be appreciated. Thank you.

Zachary · « **Reply #1 on:** May 15, 2003, 04:24:36 AM »

karl,

Different people will tell you different things, and no one is right, and no one is wrong.

For me, what I do is as follows:

clean after every 1 shot during the first 10 shots
clean after every 2 shots during the next 10 shots
clean after every 3 shots thereafter for the next 9 or 12 shots

This may be a bit overkill, but I much rather want it this way so that I have peace of mind.

Keep in mind that this is literally a breaking in process. Although you should simultaneously sight in your scope, don't worry about measuring your groups because, since you are constantly cleaning, and there is some oil or cleaning residue in the barrel, your groups will not be great.

You should start measuring your groups after about 30 shots or so (after the break-in period).

Again, there is no one way to break in a new gun.

BTW, congrats on the Tikka - you got yourself one heck of a gun!! :-D

Zachary

ccanevit · « **Reply #2 on:** June 12, 2003, 11:59:06 PM »

Do you really have to do all that to break in a new rifle?

Or is there some alternates?
What is the purpose of doing that?

Zachary · « **Reply #3 on:** June 13, 2003, 03:27:10 AM »

A brand new barrel from the factory has imperfections inside of it, just like there are imperfections in brand new car engines.

In a car engine, although there are machines that have extremely close tolerances, there are always slight burrs or other imperfections in the metal, and thus are not perfectly smooth. On a brand new engine, after your first oil change, you can sometimes see very very small metal shavings. As the pistons continue to go up and down, these burrs smooth out and the engine becomes "broken in." Prior to breaking in a new engine, you should never run it at high rpms because it could cause damage in the long run. The same principle, at least to some degree, applies to breaking in a new barrel.

The insides of barrels have burrs and imperfections too. Granted, sometimes you can't see them with the naked eye, but they are there. As such, once you shoot a bullet through it, you should clean it out and make sure that you don't compress the crud into the metal and cause further problems. Also, you should ALWAYS make sure that you do not cause the barrel to overheat. Again, if you overheat an engine, you know what happens - so don't let your barrels overheat either.

So to answer your question, MUST you break-in a barrel just like I said earlier? No, you don't have to, but it is a very safe alternative.

Zachary

Muddyboots · « **Reply #4 on:** June 13, 2003, 01:43:18 PM »

Agree with Zachary with one exception. I swab barrel with JB paste 20 or so times before I go to range to help speed the process. This helps clean the barrel of factory crud as well. Just look at the break in as an opportune time to fire form brass to the chamber. Load up 50 or so rounds of bullets you wanted to get rid of anyway or buy a box of 100 Hornady's. Cheap enough and shoot great for most part. You don't have to get the barrel whistle clean between shots...just enought to clear it out of standing crud. I think it is worth the effort and takes away a variable if groups are not happening.

I broke in a Sendero in 300 Win Mag last year this way and by end of 30 or so rounds it was sub MOA with 165 gr. Partitions that I had laying around. Took most of morning and early afternoon but it wasn't bad. Bring lots of solvent and patches! I use Butches and barrel is slicker than goose snot. Have fun! I can't think of a better way to spend a day then breaking in a new rifle cause that means I have a new toy anyway!!
Good Luck!
Muddyboots

ccanevit · « **Reply #5 on:** June 13, 2003, 11:24:08 PM »

Just curious about this most of all because I now have a new Savage 7mm Remington Magnum, and have ordered full length dies brass and bullets to go ahead and reload as well.

I read an article in Rifle Shooter, same one with the Mr. Magnum guy talking about the 30-06, about Hunting and Accuracy and full-sizing your rounds. I guess I'm just trying to do the best thing I can do for accuracy, and make sure I get the best shots I can on my Game Animals.

What would you recommend for the bargain shopper on cleaning supplies? I've been using an outers Universal kit on all my guns so far, what solvent should I be using? Should I be concerned about this rod I'm using? Would you use a Jag or a Patch loop? What about the brush? Any tips would be appreciated, so I know I'm doing everything right.

Thanks

tominboise · « **Reply #6 on:** June 14, 2003, 01:46:52 AM »

Eventually you will reach the point where you throw away all your cheap jointed rods and buy pro shot (or similar, dewey for example) one piece stainless steel rods.

I have two one piece rods, one for the small calibers, like 22 centerfire and 6.5, 270, etc, the other larger for bigger stuff. I use two different size jags, one small, one medium, and vary patch size to get the proper fit to the bore. Thats another thing you will eventually do, switch from cut up tee-shirts to high quaity patches, just for the convenience if nothing else.

I use Butches Bore shine, primarily, as a solvent. Sometimes I'll use CR-10 or kroil. I even use WD-40 now and then.

HTH

gunnut69 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 14, 2003, 09:03:50 AM »

I don't really believe in the 'break in process' as it regards a rifle barrel. It sounds good but have grave reservations. If all that cleaning is done with jointed rods or other damaging tools/supplies more harm than good may occur. I have reached the point where I break in rifles by shooting them and cleaning when the accuracy starts falling off. Break them in by shooting them, The high pressures and heat generated by the bullets passage would seem to me to be the best breakin possible. Next NEVER shoot a rifle with ANY oil in the bore. Doing so is the surest and quickest way to degrade accurracy. Hydralic denting will create loose spots in the bore and the results will most certainly disappoint. Always clean a new rifle well before shooting to avoid the above and to check the rifle over. Sad but true I've found NEW rifles with no crown, no ejector spring, and circumferential grooving in the chamber and that's just the Remingtons. I advise the use of uncoated stainless rods(keep them clean!!!). They are the least likely to embed grit and damage the bore. I use brushes only under extreme circumstances. Usually patches will suffice. If you must brush use the poly bristle brushes. My normal solvent is ShootersChoice although Hoppes smells great and I sometimes use it(works just as well for powder fouling). For jacket fouling I use Sweets 7.62. It's very aggressive and can't be left in the bore but I usually don't have time to mess around anyway. If there is a real problem I use the OutersFoulOut electro chemical unit and alternate that with brushes and ShootersChoice. That process works best for me. A polished stainless rod will not harm your bore, the edge of that rod might. I use a ceramic stone and polish(break) the edge of the end of the rod where the jag screws in. Jointed aluminum rods are junk and should not be used. For bore protection I've been experimenting and have switched to a synthetic ATF(automatic transmission fluid). Was recommended by someone I really look up to and works great. Non drying, non gumming, cheap, and as slick as it gets. As to grease(locking lugs and other high pressure areas) I use a synthetic wheel bearing grease with moly. Just a dab will do and it'll stay where it's put and not fail under the most extreme pressures(it's cheap to).
PS- I use synthetics for their wider range of operating temps. PTFE is nearly as good as moly in greaases but avoid silicone as it'l fail under high pressures. Also graphite greases work well and I still use Gunslicks GunGrease with graphite quite a bit. For cleaning a filthy rifle nothing beats a can of cheap carb cleaner(be careful, it'll damage stock finishes and perhaps some plastics). I use the cheapest I can find, the better brands sometimes leave oily residues. Anything so cleaned MUST be oiled/lubed immediately as all protection is removed by the spray and the steel will rust if not protected.

Power · « **Reply #8 on:** June 15, 2003, 12:14:01 PM »

Gunnut, I agree with your writing very much. I just purchased a new rifle as well and I'm not into this whole break-in stuff myself. Just clean it when it needs it. On that note, how clean should you get it? Seems I can run 20+ patches through and still they come out dirty. I've put about 50 rounds through it so far and kept it relatively clean but never can get it 100% clean. Am I doing something wrong? I don't want to run 50 patches through every time I clean it but I don't want to leave residue either. I'm only using Hopps w/ patches, stainless 1-piece rod, plastic jag.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 16, 2003, 09:08:45 AM »

Hoppes No.9 is a powder solvent only. They make a copper solvent but I found it to be very mild. I had to leave it in the barrel too long to get rid of the jacket metal fouling. I use Hoppes and ShootersChoice to remove powder fouling. Then I clean with Sweets 7.62. This is a very aggressive jacket metal remover and should NOT be left in the bore for extended periods(i.e. overnight). It also has the advantage of being water based(amonia based cleaner) which will help some with corrosive priming. If you notice a greenish fouling especially in the corners of the grooves, get and use a copper removing solution. For really bad barrels(some barrels foul worse than others) use J-B Bore Paste. It's a mild abrasive so I use only occasionally and after using the above mentioned first.. On new barrels or barrels with minor pitting it can sometimes help smooth things out a bit. If the barrel is badly fouled use a brush. The copper remover will attack the bristles on the brush but it should withstand several cleanings if washed out with coap and water after use. Try Sweet's you love it, just follow the directions on the bottle..the gunnut69

Zachary · « **Reply #10 on:** June 16, 2003, 12:40:56 PM »

What is this I hear about ONE-PIECE cleaning rods as opposed to the "cheap" connecting rods?

Belive me, if there is a better way, then please let me know. I don't mind spending extra money for a better product. In fact, the cheaper connecting rods are actually MORE expensive. Why? Because they always seem to break, thus requiring me to buy more of them. I guess the only real benefit to the connecting rods is that they are convenient to store, but I want the best cleaning tools available.

Can anyone be more specific and give me brand names and models, and from where I can purchase such tools?
Thanks,

Zachary

longwinters · « **Reply #11 on:** June 16, 2003, 01:58:12 PM »

I never saw the need to "break in" a barrel either. Although . . . Are You Ready??? With the Tikka rifles they shoot MOA out of the box so no break in needed. Hmmm... Hey Zachery, I beat you to it.

savageT · « **Reply #12 on:** June 16, 2003, 03:07:29 PM »

Quote from: Zachary

What is this I hear about ONE-PIECE cleaning rods as opposed to the "cheap" connecting rods?

Belive me, if there is a better way, then please let me know. I don't mind spending extra money for a better product. In fact, the cheaper connecting rods are actually MORE expensive. Why? Because they always seem to break, thus requiring me to buy more of them. I guess the only real benefit to the connecting rods is that they are convenient to store, but I want the best cleaning tools available.

size=12]Can anyone be more specific and give me brand names and models, and from where I can purchase such tools?[/size]
Thanks,

Zachary

Zachary,
I just purchased a Kleen Bore Deluxe Cleaning Rod, 33"
stainless steel, one-piece rod that comes with swival handle, brass bore guide and patch loop. Very nice!
from CABELA'S part # 22-4745.....$19.99

chk · « **Reply #13 on:** June 16, 2003, 03:27:39 PM »

I think Zach is on to the "break in" process in the right perspective. You clean a new barrel to keep it from getting a copper build up before it causes problems. It all depends on the maufacturer and the condition of the barrel. Ruger stainless barrels seem to be rougher than say Winchester stainless barrels. I'd rather clean all of the copper out in the beginning than spend a lot of time wishing I had. I use a one piece stainless rod.

tominboise · « **Reply #14 on:** June 17, 2003, 04:01:36 AM »

I use and recommend proshot cleaning rods. I have two, one for .22 and one for larger bores (7mm and up). I love them. Throw away all the jointed aluminum rods and get some decent rods. Dewey and others also make them. I buy this kind of stuff either locally and thru Sinclair's web site. They have a bunch of neat stuff.

TOm

Crayfish · « **Reply #15 on:** June 17, 2003, 07:25:31 AM »

Oops.

Crayfish · « **Reply #16 on:** June 17, 2003, 07:35:25 AM »

Well, I guess my long-winded reply didn't take! You guys lucked out and get the short version!

Zachary : I also use a "Pro Shot" brand 1-piece stainless cleaning rod with "Pro Shot" jags of the appropriate size. I only have the .22cal rod and use it on everything. It's a very nice quality rod that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Hoppes' brushes fit it just fine, as well.

As far as barrel break-in, I'd never done it until the Rem 700 Mtn Rifle that I got last year, and even then it was drastically reduced from Zachary's procedure! I cleaned after every shot for the first 7 or so and got sick of it. Then I cleaned after each range session back down to bare metal. It seems to clean up very easily, so maybe it didn't really need a break-in anyway. I use Rem Bore Cleaner (the mild abrasive stuff) followed by RB-17 copper solvent. Follow that up with Hoppes #9 to get all the RB out and then run a couple of patches thru with Break Free CLP. Perfectly clean as far as I can tell by looking at patches and looking down the bore.

That being said, other rifles that got NO break-in whatsoever have always shot well for me so I'm not convinced that there is an advantage at this point! Maybe easier clean up or something, but as long as they shoot to my expectations I don't care.

Well, Ok, maybe not a very short version after all! ... Crayfish

demarpaint · « **Reply #17 on:** June 18, 2003, 02:57:25 AM »

Crawfish:

I am not sure if I read your post correctly, but there is a danger in using the .22 cal rod for all caliber rifles. Lets say you use a .22 rod in a .30 cal bore, the rod might flex since it is thinner and rub against the rifling in the barrel causing wear in spots. The best rods are the 1 piece Dewey, or Bore tech, and use a bore guide. I only allow enough rod to exit the barrel so the patch can come off. A small piece of tape marking where to stop, or a guide stop works well and saves the crown.

I read a long time ago an article written by Gale McMillan, I think. He has since passed away, but was considered to be one of the best in the rifle business. He wrote about barrel break-in, and he was not a fan of it. Just shoot and clean, and never overheat a barrel.

I hope this helps.

Frank D :-)

Crayfish · « **Reply #18 on:** June 18, 2003, 05:00:44 AM »

Frank - That's probably true, but I don't think I'll wear a barrel out in my lifetime from the cleaning rod rubbing against the barrel (not talking about crown damage here from not using a rod guide or something). I do use a bore guide and try not to lean on the rod too heavily. I've got to be leaps and bounds above the old jointed rods I was using up until a couple of years ago, anyway!

Thanks for the warning ... Crayfish

ccanevit · « **Reply #19 on:** June 19, 2003, 09:23:53 PM »

Well I tried to post earlier today, but unfortunately the website or connectivity to it was a problem. Anyhow. Ok, so most of you all are against the jointed aluminum rods, that I've been using. I haven't cleaned my new rifle yet, but been using those on my Glock 23 and Winchester Ranger 30-30, and my son's Ruger M77 .308. So, you all say don't use these universal rods. I didn't think there was a problem using them.

Ok. First question, what do you all think about the Bore-snake type cleaning stuff? Does anyone use them at all?

Second, Can someone recommend, I'm on a budget here so keep that in mind. A decent one piece Rod I can use for the Savage 110 7mm Remington Magnum I just got, maybe even a part number so I know I got the right one, and one for the other Firearms that I have as well? Or is there just one rod I can use for all my rifles?

Thanks

savageT · « **Reply #20 on:** June 20, 2003, 02:33:05 AM »

As I posted earlier (check it out)......... my one piece 33" Kleen Bore Deluxe @ $19.99 from Cabela's is just about right for any bore size. I searched for "stainless cleaning rods". Look at the Kleen Bore lineup. They make a 3-piece kit in the picture, but get the one-piece model.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/common/search/search-results.jhtml?hasJS=true&_D%3AhasJS=+&SearchTypeOrArea=0&QueryText=Kleen+Bore&%2Fcabelas%2Fcommerce%2FCabelasCatalogNumberFinder.giftCertificateURL=..%2F..%2Ftemplates%2Fgiftcertificate%2Fgiftcertificate.jhtml%3Fid%3D0005586990011a%26podId%3D0005586%26catalogCode%3DIB%26navAction%3Djump%26indexId%3D&_D%3A%2Fcabelas%2Fcommerce%2FCabelasCatalogNumberFinder.giftCertificateURL=+&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fcatalog%2Fleft-nav.jhtml&Go.x=8&Go.y=9

Jim

ccanevit · « **Reply #21 on:** June 21, 2003, 04:39:54 AM »

Ok, fine on the 1 piece rods, but no one still posted anything about the bore snake and what you all thought about them. Since no one is posting anything about them should I assume no one likes them?

urika20 · « **Reply #22 on:** June 21, 2003, 05:41:16 AM »

I can honestly say I've not done barrel break in either. When I go to the range to shoot or sightin. The barrels are clean. If a new scope has been installed a few shots are fired at 25yds then to 100yds for final sightin.
I've been doing it this way since the mid seventies.

I also reload ammo, so when I work up a new batch I'll clean the barrel before hand. Other than that, I don't clean between shots or shot strings.

I use Rem bore cleaner along with Hoppes #9 and bronze brushes if need be. I use a one piece SS rod now but for years it was 3 piece aluminum rods. I never noticed any wear or loss of accruracy in that time period. Though I've seen it written that AL. rods hold on to abrasive material. Maybe, maybe not, as long as its not stored in sand I don't think there is much of a problem. And if powder is abrasive, what happens when you shoot a bullet down that barrel?

This is is whats works for me. I'm not a bench rest shooter so I don't need one hole groups. But when feel I've reached a rifles best accruacy potential I stop there and spend the rest of the time hunting.

urika20

Zachary · « **Reply #23 on:** June 21, 2003, 01:28:45 PM »

Quote from: ccanevit

Ok, fine on the 1 piece rods, but no one still posted anything about the bore snake and what you all thought about them. Since no one is posting anything about them should I assume no one likes them?

I have spoken to quite a few gunsmiths and many of them tell me to stay away from the bore snake. In fact, one of the gunsmiths (Answer Products) was extremely against the bore snake. I don't quite remember what the reason(s) were, but I decided to never use them.

Zachary

savageT · « **Reply #24 on:** June 22, 2003, 07:29:16 AM »

Quote from: Zachary

Quote from: ccanevit
Ok, fine on the 1 piece rods, but no one still posted anything about the bore snake and what you all thought about them. Since no one is posting anything about them should I assume no one likes them?

I have spoken to quite a few gunsmiths and many of them tell me to stay away from the bore snake. In fact, one of the gunsmiths (Answer Products) was extremely against the bore snake. I don't quite remember what the reason(s) were, but I decided to never use them.

Zachary

I think the answer to BoreSnakes are simple: They get contaminated with the first pass through a dirty bore and all you are doing is continually re-contaminating your bore with the same dirty "patch". Yes, the boresnake can be washed out and reused....but the same thing happens again the next time. I prefer the Otis cable system that only allows the patch or brush to travel in one direction...from chamber to muzzle. Perhaps this system is not the fastest method of cleaning, but is the safest.

Jim

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 22, 2003, 08:33:15 AM »

Dewey rods are pretty good. If you want to take a look: http://www.deweyrods.com/

Power · « **Reply #26 on:** June 22, 2003, 02:42:18 PM »

Quote from: ButlerFord45

Dewey rods are pretty good. If you want to take a look: http://www.deweyrods.com/

And their instructions on how to clean your bore;

http://www.deweyrods.com/tips.htm

Crayfish · « **Reply #27 on:** June 24, 2003, 08:11:43 AM »

Here is a link for "Pro Shot" products. Not necessarily endorsing / promoting them, it's just what I use!

http://www.proshotproducts.com/

... Crayfish