Do I understand this?

[snapcrackpop]

I want a .243 a .204 and a muzzleloader.  Planning to buy one soon.
Never used a muzzleloader before or done any reloading.

The muz is pretty good, but could use a new ramrod and a .25 conversion.


Centerfires:
The superlight should be avoided unless I can do some glass bedding and scope base modifications, otherwise expect patterns, not groups?

Stainless marks easily, but might slow down corrosion.

Accuracy is good, but only after 3-5 fouling shots and waiting 10-15 minutes between shots. (Hunting senerio anyways).
Still a good idea to glass bed the forearm or use the rubber O-ring and play with the tourque.


Did I miss any major issues?
Thanks, just want a good heads up before putting down a few bucks.

[fastbike]

I can only speak for my .223, but I don't need to wait 10-15 minutes between shots for MOA accuracy. I typically shoot groups of five and then switch to a different bull. After about twenty shots I may let the barrel cool, but more because I want a break than any accuracy issues.
I have a Choate Varmint stock and forend on my Ultra Varmint and have not done a bedding or o-ring work. I get MOA off a bipod.

I want a .243 a .204 and a muzzleloader.  Planning to buy one soon.
Never used a muzzleloader before or done any reloading.

The muz is pretty good, but could use a new ramrod and a .25 conversion.


Centerfires:
The superlight should be avoided unless I can do some glass bedding and scope base modifications, otherwise expect patterns, not groups?

Stainless marks easily, but might slow down corrosion.

Accuracy is good, but only after 3-5 fouling shots and waiting 10-15 minutes between shots. (Hunting senerio anyways).
Still a good idea to glass bed the forearm or use the rubber O-ring and play with the tourque.


Did I miss any major issues?
Thanks, just want a good heads up before putting down a few bucks.

[PartsMan]

I agree.
Only the superlite has that much trouble heating up.
The heavy barrels will shoot many shots in a row.
Most will get fine hunting accuracy stock or with oring.

[snapcrackpop]

Do they have bull/heavy barrels for the .204 and .243?

What about stainless vs blue?

Thanks.

[cowboyup453]

Yes they have bull barrels in 204 and 243 fluted or not.
http://www.hr1871.com/Support/accessoryProgram.aspx

[joshco84]

as far as the stainless vs. blue, i prefer a blued gun.  usually blued is also cheaper than stainless, and i like cheap guns so there is my argument.

josh

[snapcrackpop]

Thanks for the replys.

What about taking 3-5 fouling shots?
Or is that only for the Superlight also?

Any major tricks to get these shooting, or pull it out of the box and start shooting.
Is "barrel brake-in" process a must?

[joshco84]

from what i hear, almost every handi likes anywhere from 3-10 fouling shots before they start to group well again.  This is for all rifles, not just the superlights.  Also the barrel break in depends on you,  I personally put 20 rounds through and clean for the first 100 shots and it works well for me.  Other clean a lot more often, and some not as much.  For cleaning i use shooters choice solvent, wipe out foaming bore cleaner, flush out (made by the wipe out people), and oil it with pb blaster.  I will start using kroil, i just happened to have the pb on hand.

josh

[fastbike]

Mine likes a couple of shots (after cleaning) to group. I didn't break mine in beyond the initial cleaning. I then shot about a 100 rounds first time out (between scope sight-in and general fun), then cleaned. I cleaned the gun after the next 100 rounds. After that I realized the gun will show me when it needs cleaning. During this period I was shooting both Remington UMC 55 gr FMJ and Federal American Eagle 55 grn FMJ. No particular preference for either. No issues from the gun. I did find that I like shooting w/ the Choate Varmint furniture much better than the stock Cinnamon laminate furniture. The gun groups better w/ the Choate, but that's proably mostly due to my being able to get a much steadier position.

Thanks for the replys.

What about taking 3-5 fouling shots?
Or is that only for the Superlight also?

Any major tricks to get these shooting, or pull it out of the box and start shooting.
Is "barrel brake-in" process a must?

[snapcrackpop]

Thanks guys.
I did a search before my first post and read several posts about poor accuracy, actions popping open, stringing shots, etc.

I've been spoiled shooting my Savage 17HMR with <1" groups. 
To read stuff about 3-6" groups was unsettleing to say the least.

Thanks for the clarification and restoring my confidence.

How long do you think it will take to get a .204, .243 and a muzzleloader to come in?
Or should I get the muzzleloader separate?

What should I expect to pay?

[stimpylu32]

The only way i know to get the combo that you want is to buy a 204 or 243 rifle and then add the the other 2 barrels , either by having H&R fit them or to buy them 2nd hand and fit them yourself ( if your not the DIY type , have a smith fit them for you )

If you have H&R do the work you will need to send the frame to them and wait about 3 to 6 weeks for its return maybe longer depending on what barrels that they have in stock at the time .

stimpy

P.S.  barrel fitting is not a bad job , the inst. are in the FAQs at the top of the CF Forum page . 

[snapcrackpop]

I thought my firearms dealer would order the gun and extra barrels from H&R directly after they "fit" them?
Or does he order them from someone else, then send it to H&R?

[quickdtoo]

Customers are the only ones that can order accessory barrels from H&R, you'll have to buy the rifle from your dealer, then send the frame in for barrels. They don't sell just barrels, to anyone. If the dealer is willing to send a frame in for you as an individual, then sell you the combo after he gets it back, that could work. He can't order accessory barrels from his distributor.

Tim