Author Topic: I love it when my rifle's match...... (Read 1334 times)

J. Plate · « **on:** February 01, 2007, 07:38:41 AM »

Didn't realize the stocks were going to be so close in color. It's nice to see that they also match my dining room table.

Just throwing this up as a thanks to the guys who helped me with the caliber and rings on the .308 Ultra. Pictured to the right.

And a big thanks to cowboyup453 (Ian) for the cinnamon lams that now grace my .17HMR "Ultra Varmint Wannabe" on the left.

The care and time you put into packaging those stocks did not go unnoticed. Know that I very much appreciate that.

The pic is a little grainy, I apologize. I was shooting with no flash and didn't have time to get out the tripod. Next up, getting that .308 to the range. Pray that tomorrow is sunny and windless.

Mac11700 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 01, 2007, 07:42:32 AM »

That is a nice looking pair of rifles...I hope they shoot as good as they look..

Mac

J. Plate · « **Reply #2 on:** February 01, 2007, 07:46:51 AM »

Here's hoping.

The .17HMR is a tack driver. It's usually pretty close to one ragged hole, 5-shot groups at 100. At least it was with the synthetics. I would hope that would only get better with added weight and the floated barrel. I never floated the synthetic because I would've had to take off a ton of material and wasn't up to the task. The laminated forend has a little wider channel and isn't touching the barrel.

The .308 is actually my first centerfire rifle, and I don't handload. So for right now, "minute of deer" would be acceptable.

Mac11700 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 01, 2007, 07:55:48 AM »

Try some Winchester 150 grain Power points or the 150 grain Winchester Supremes...The 150/165 grain Federal Fusion..the 150 grain Federal Nosler Partitions....and for match ammo...The Federal 165's...and the Lapua's in all available weights..http://www.grafs.com..I'm quite sure you can find some loads...just better than minute of deer

Mac

J. Plate · « **Reply #4 on:** February 01, 2007, 08:17:40 AM »

Man, it's like your in my head!! I bought two boxes of the 150 gr. Power Points to start out with. They were $16/box and I figured I'd keep it close and zero the scope with them, rather than throwing a lot of stuff that's over $1/round right off the bat. Also bought a box of the 150 gr. Supremes with the Ballistic Silvertips. From what I understand, they are Nosler ballistic tips.....and I like what I've read about them.

Oh, btw, your link includes one of the "." before the "http" and doesn't go anywhere.

bigjeepman · « **Reply #5 on:** February 01, 2007, 08:32:29 AM »

J. Plate .... one question for you ...

We can't see the ride side of your dining table and the match of color/grain is just too close between the laminates and your table. Since you are a full blown 'holic, are you cutting up your dining table to make stocks for your Handi rifles?

If you are, you are one sick little puppie ...

Mac11700 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 01, 2007, 08:41:30 AM »

OK...I fixed the link...and you'll just have to go to their rifle ammo page and scroll down to it...Weird..

No...the Supreme Silver Ballistic tips...aren't the normal Nosler bullets...They are made in conjunction with Winchester under the company name of Combined Technologies...These bullets differ than the standard ballistic tips by having a Lubalux coating (not moly ) and having a thicker jacket and base...One could call them the premium ballistic tips if they wanted...and they don't cost much more than the standard ones...You do have to start from a clean barrel..and don't mix regular jacketed bullets or other coated bullets like the Barnes thru the bore after shooting these...because accuracy will suffer and will be a royal pain in the backside to fully clean it all out......Also..to clean the Lubalux out takes longer...a-lot of guys don't like using them because of this...but...Every Handi I have ever shot them in shoot great...and I usually use them for my benchmark loads when available to do so...

Mac

J. Plate · « **Reply #7 on:** February 01, 2007, 08:55:05 AM »

BJM - You know...I didn't even notice that until I looked at the pictures on my screen. I'm gonna have to look into that. Although, if you thought getting the wife to agree to the purchase of a new rifle is tough....wait 'till I hit her with that one!!!!

Mac - thanks for the tips. (No pun intended, right? ....oh, who am i kidding?) My brother in law has a .223 with the 22" bull barrel and is shooting pretty tight groups out to 200 yards with the Silver tips. They are nice bullets. I figured they would be good for deer and black bear rounds, plus probably a little more accurate than the PP's.

Do you have any experience with the Hornady TAP loading with the 110 gr. BT.....or what appears to be a BT on Hornady.com? I'm half heartedly searching for a coyote round for this gun until I get around to sending in for that 24" bull barrel in .243. I'm not all that concerned with pelts, as we really don't have a good outlet for them in my area.....I'm more for just getting coyotes off my deer hunting properties, and having some fun hunting predators.......and there's really no reason to cut them in half if you don't have to.......right?

MSP Ret · « **Reply #8 on:** February 01, 2007, 12:46:30 PM »

Nice looking family, they look like twins!! I think you should get busy and increase the size
of the "family". You know what they say, there is always room for one more....<><....

J. Plate · « **Reply #9 on:** February 01, 2007, 02:50:16 PM »

Yeah, I think that's in the works. Trying to decide on a .243 barrel or to make the set a trio.

Had an encouraging experience though. Showed the wife the .17HMR with the cinnamon lam stocks and she says, "Yeah, I know. You showed me that one last night when you brought it home."

If she can't tell them apart.......looks like I'm gonna have a closet full of Ultra's!!

EVOC ONE · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2007, 03:19:31 PM »

A very nice pair, indeed.

And, yes. They do look suspiciously like the grain of the table. Hmm?

Should you want to find a matching pair of Handi's or Pardners with Camo laminates, I can give you the name of a shop in PA. that reguarly stocks about a dozen at any given time.

McLernon · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2007, 04:25:29 PM »

Even the harshest critics of Handi rifles would have to appreciate your'matched set'. Frankly I don't know how NEF does such a great job for so little money. These rifles are respectable pieces of work!!

Mc

J. Plate · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2007, 04:58:40 AM »

Quote from: EVOC ONE on February 01, 2007, 03:19:31 PM

A very nice pair, indeed.

And, yes. They do look suspiciously like the grain of the table. Hmm?

Should you want to find a matching pair of Handi's or Pardners with Camo laminates, I can give you the name of a shop in PA. that reguarly stocks about a dozen at any given time.

If you could PM me that info, it would be greatly appreciated. I'm in the Finger Lakes, and if it's not too far a drive, I'd like to see what I can do about a .243, and possibly a .223 in the long run of things.

Mac11700 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2007, 06:20:30 AM »

JP...

No..I haven't tried any of the TAP ammo on yote's...but don't see why they wouldn't work for ya...nothing ventured...nothing gained ya know

Well...since your wife cant' tell the difference...you might want to try getting one of these past her...

Yea...I know it's stainless & a lever gun...but..if they are just looking at the wood...ya never know

Mac

MSP Ret · « **Reply #14 on:** February 02, 2007, 06:29:51 AM »

Hi EVOC ONE, If you get a chance would you PM me the info on that PA gunshop also. My wife's
family is in Western PA and it could be a nice "side trip" next time we get out there....<><....

McLernon · « **Reply #15 on:** February 02, 2007, 12:03:36 PM »

Hey Mac:

I am on the prowl for a set of grey lams for my Handi too so there will be two matched XLR/Handi sets in North America.

Mc

J. Plate · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2007, 05:14:19 PM »

Wow, those are some really nice looking rifles. I'm going to have to try some of that TAP ammo.....as soon as I find someone who carries it. Shipping ammo has gotten expensive.

Did manage to get some shooting in today. The .17HMR is still the same as it's always been. I just love shooting that little rifle. The added weight of the wood stocks has taken away what little recoil there was in the first place. I shot one group at 100 yards, 5 shots that you could completely cover with a dime with room to spare.

The .308 was a little different story. Shot really well at 50 yards to get the scope zeroed. Shot at 100 and was hitting 1.5-2" groups after two groups. Moved to 200 and the groups got bigger, but the scope was centered. It was then that I noticed that things were a little loose. So, I tightened down the forend and the groups got a little tighter. I threw two more at 100...one was just barely over an inch and the other was a 1.5". Couldn't shoot better than 2.5"-3" at 200, but did manage to hit only 0.5" away from the bull at 300 aiming about 6 inches high....so I called it a day. That was with the 150 gr. Power Points. The Supreme BST's grouped just a touch wider at each distance, and hit about 1.5" - 2" higher everytime.

I think I still have more work to do with this rifle. It occured to me that the barrel is a bit looser than the barrel on my .17. Not when it's locked up, but when it's open there is a bunch of play in it. And, I noticed that the barrel release is incredibly loose compared to the .17. I can move it within the channel it lays side to side, as well as up and down....whether the barrel is locked or not. Any advice on how to fix those two things?? Or any insight as to how that affects accuracy, if at all?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #17 on:** February 02, 2007, 05:37:10 PM »

Loose only when the action is open can be tightened by shimming between the spacer and forend, I use aluminum furnace tape, it's cheap, easy to trim and can't be seen, it's about .002" thick. If the barrel is loose when the action is closed with the forend removed, it should go back to H&R for repair/barrel replacement.

Tim

J. Plate · « **Reply #18 on:** February 02, 2007, 05:51:15 PM »

Quote from: quickdtoo on February 02, 2007, 05:37:10 PM

Loose only when the action is open can be tightened by shimming between the spacer and forend, I use aluminum furnace tape, it's cheap, easy to trim and can't be seen, it's about .002" thick. If the barrel is loose when the action is closed with the forend removed, it should go back to H&R for repair/barrel replacement.

Tim

Thanks for the tips. I'll try the shimming.

As for the barrel, I'll check it. How much movement is too much movement? Is it an 'any at all' kind of situation, or a 'not too much'. The play I was talking about is when the action is open. You can hinge the barrel up and down a bit (maybe 1/2") without locking it up.

Any tips on the release button?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #19 on:** February 02, 2007, 05:54:16 PM »

See my barrel fitting instructions in the FAQs, you'll need to smoke the latch shelf to see how much latch engagement you're getting. It will also tell you how to check barrel to frame gap when the action is locked up.

Tim

J. Plate · « **Reply #20 on:** February 02, 2007, 06:01:56 PM »

Thanks Quick!

J. Plate · « **Reply #21 on:** February 03, 2007, 05:30:09 AM »

Quick,

YOU DA MAN!

Put a trimmed piece of card stock between the wood and the plastic hinge piece on the forend this AM, and that served to tighten everything right up. And, gave me a little more gap between the forend and barrel so that I could tighten the forend screw right down tight and still have a nicely floated forend.

More questions, though: I'm reading through your barrel fitting FAQ to make sure that the ever-so-slight movement in my barrel against the receiver when the forend is removed, is acceptable by using the 'smoke the latch' technique and the feeler gauges, but...do you have any pics of this process other than the latch pic in the FAQ? I'm unsure at what area the gauges are placed between the barrel and the reciever? There is no visible gap between the barrel and the breech (that is, the area around the firing pin). But, I can't quite get the barrel to lock up on the .002" gauge. But, I'm also not sure that I'm doing it exactly right. I smoked the latch (at least I think I did, blackened it with a candle flame) and measured it while I had the feeler gauges out by putting the .040 and .035 gauges together, and you can *barely* see what's been removed by lock up. Sound like I know what I'm doing yet?

Sorry for the ignorance, but some of your terminology is wasted on this guy. I don't have much experience in this area!!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #22 on:** February 03, 2007, 05:56:43 AM »

I put the blade across the top of the chamber so it's checking the clearance just above the chamber opening, I also do it on each side on the upper third to make sure the barrel pivot is square to the barrel and isn't tight or loose on one side. Ideally you can close it on a .001" thick blade and not be able to pull it out or it's real snug. If you can pull a .002" blade out, it's probably acceptable by H&R standards, but not the best and you will get detectable movement.

Latch engagement should be roughly 1/4 to 1/3(~.060"-.080") of the end of the latch shelf and even all the way across.

Tim

J. Plate · « **Reply #23 on:** February 03, 2007, 06:14:05 AM »

Okay, thanks for the clarification. I think I got it now. It all seems to be in spec, with a slightly detectable movement of the barrel when the forend is off. I did get the .002" in there, but it's a chore..... Maybe I'm just being a worry wort with a new firearm.

With the .040 and the .035 feelers together, I can barely see what has been removed from the barrel latch....so at .075, that's in spec too.

With the forend on, it is nice and tight. We'll have to see if that affects the accuracy at all.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #24 on:** February 03, 2007, 06:29:31 AM »

To check barrel gap, open the action and hold the blade where you want to check, and slam the barrel shut to get max lock up just as you would when preparing to shoot, then try to pull the blade out. I take it you're trying to put the blade in the gap with the barrel already locked up? A new rifle will require more force to close until the latch and latch shelf are well mated, that's what usually causes pop opens.

Tim

J. Plate · « **Reply #25 on:** February 03, 2007, 08:57:19 AM »

Nope, that's what I was doing. Putting the gauge in while it was open and then trying to close the barrel on it. It was just tough at first because my feeler gauges are all connected to each other and I was trying to hold the damn thing in the breech and close the gauge in there without being able to get enough force on it to close it. When the .002" is in there it's really tough to close and get out. But, that's the thinnest one that I have, so I haven't been able to try a .001" yet.

But, it seems to have worked like you describe in the FAQ.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #26 on:** February 03, 2007, 09:00:24 AM »

Ok, you can measure the thickness of aluminum foil and fold it to get a .001" thick test blade.

Tim

Mac11700 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 03, 2007, 12:02:09 PM »

JP...

Auto Zone sells 2 different sets...both under $5.00

Mac

EVOC ONE · « **Reply #28 on:** February 03, 2007, 04:23:05 PM »

MSP Ret and J. Plate ............. PM's Sent.

J. Plate · « **Reply #29 on:** February 04, 2007, 04:46:08 AM »

Mac, thanks. I'll hit the one here in town. It's two blocks from my house!!

EVOC, thanks for the info. I'll check that out.