Overtravel screw, yea or nay

[IronAir]

Don't see many guns with this option.  I was just wondering what you guys think of this.  I think I understand the theory behind the screw, but I would like to hear what others think.

Thanks

[Ken ONeill]

With a Redhawk, a revolver with a lot of trigger overtravel, a properly adjusted trigger stop can make for a big improvement. I have them on all 7 of mine. Since this is the FA forum, I assume you're talking about a FA. I have trigger stops on a Mdl. 83 .44 Mag. and a 252 .22LR. They work fine, they came that way as original equipment, and both guns are very accurate. However, I don't have trigger stops on any of my other FA's (a number somewhere between way more than I need, and way less than I want) and don't feel they are necessary, as I've never been bothered by excess overtravel on a FA, and all these others are more or less equally accurate, within the constraints of their caliber. If you think you want one though, it's a very low cost option if you're ordering a new gun.

[Rod in Pa]

I ordered a Model 83 22lr about three weeks ago. I ordered it with the overtravel screw. It will be my first overtravel screw on a FA handgun. My Model 83 44 mag doesn't have the overtravel screw. I will let you know how it works out. Rod in Pa

[OLDHandgunner]

I'm a believer in an overtravel screw on curtain guns.

[IronAir]

Ken, yes I was talking about FA revolvers, but my question could be applied to any gun I suppose.  I have a 45 Redhawk myself, but it does not get shot all that much because it hurts my hand with heavy loads and the trigger pull is junk.  I took the hammer out and ground the sear engagement down to .005, so it doesn't have any creep, but it is still about 5 lbs.  A lighter spring helped, but made for unreliable ignition.  If you have 7 of them, you must know the secret to getting a good trigger.  I don't.

Is the overtravel screw, in your opinion, more of feel thing?  Or does limiting the movement of the trigger after the shot breaks actually keep the gun steadier, therefore improving potential accuracy?   

You are correct about the low cost thing, only $19 according to the FA website.  Can't go wrong with that.

You mentioned that your guns were all more or less equally accurate, within the constraints of their caliber.  What did you mean by that?  Do you feel that some calibers have a better chance of being accurate?

I think I remember reading that the 41 mag and also the 475 were usually very accurate.  Have you guys found this to be the case?

Rod, I would love to hear about your new gun when it arrives.  Pictures too are always a plus.

[Rod in Pa]

IronAir, When my new Model 83 22lr arrives I will let everyone know. As far as pictures go, I will let you down. I still use point and shoot. If you can picture this...It will be a FA Model 83 with a 7 1/2 bbl, over travel screw, 3 lb trigger pull . Lovell mounts( purchased from Freedom Arms) . I plan to mount a Leupold 2X7 rimfire scope rifle scope to the Model 83. I also have three boxes of Eley 22lr black box ordered. My only wish is that this handgun arrives in time for me to mount the scope and sight it in before the Squirrel ends in Pa. I will keep you posted. Rod in Pa.   

[Rod in Pa]

IronAir, One more thing... A few years ago, I owned a FA Model 83 in a 475 Linebaugh. I was a powerful, wonderful handgun. It shot 2" groups at 110 yards. It had a 7 1/2 bbl, Magnaported(via FA factory) Lovell mounts with a Leupold 2 1/2 X 8 pistol scope. I shot a small Whitetail doe with it (overkill) . I did trade in the handgun due to a shoulder injury. After the trade, I purchased a new FA Model 83  7 1/2 bbl in a 44 mag. It is just as accurate as my Linebaugh and kills deer as well as the Linebaugh but with less recoil. Rod in Pa.

[Ken ONeill]

Iron Air,
 The trigger stop will reduce the amount of trigger overtravel after the sear break, thereby theoretically reducing the amount of movement of the gun while the bullet is still in the barrel, thus contributing, again in theory, to being better able to hit what you're aiming at. With accomplished .22 target shooters, as well as DA shooters ( not simply shooters of DA guns), the results can be readily seen. As I said, the Redhawk needs one, in my opinion. However, the stop MUST be properly adjusted. For me, this means allowing just a bit of overtravel, rather than having the back of the trigger contact the stop immediately after the sear breaks loose, which I find can be jarring to the sight picture and movement of the gun, not to mention being at risk for screw movement which could prevent the gun from firing.
Yes, the design requires a heavy trigger pull in a Redhawk to assure dependable ignition. This requirement is heightened if you shoot it DA with magnum primers. About the best you can do is stone the creep out for SA shooting, then simply work with it enough to learn to shoot it well. Spring clipping and replacement can work, but can put you in danger of likely ignition problems.
Relative accuracy of FA's related to caliber? Scoped, with me shooting, my 353 (.357) is often a 1 MOA gun; the 757 (.41) can be a 2 MOA gun; the 252 (.22LR) with a trigger stop,maybe 3 MOA; the .475's 3 to 4 MOA, as is the .44. (also with a trigger stop) My .454 and .50AE/.500WE, maybe 4 to 5MOA. The 97's are similar, with the likely champ being a .32 Mag. It's not scoped, so I can't be sure. How much variation from caliber to caliber is the gun.. the caliber...the load.. my recoil tolerance ? I dunno. Don't much care. They are good enough to suit me for their intended use. Trajectory will be a more critical factor than these differences in pure accuracy to hitting, at distances between say 35 and 125 yards in a hunting scenario, or even beyond, in target shooting.