Need step by step bedding for mod 70

[sunnenman]

Greetings,
I'm in the process of bedding my win mod 70 stainless with synthetic stock.  I purchased the Browneslls Glasbed for synthetic stocks but the directions could be a lot better.  Does anyone know of a web site that has directions and pictures for this procedure?  I would also like to know if there is any tricks related to the winchester mod 70.  Thanks for your help.
sunnenman

[gunnut69]

I'm not familiar with the stock you have but glass bedding is not difficlut. With the plastic stocks the main problem incurred is failure to bond to the stock material. It must be cleaned well to get rid of any mold release used by the manufacturer and a chisel or moto tool used to provide a mechanical bond. I use paste wax as a release agent for the metal as it produces a smaller gap and is much less likely to rub off or otherwise fail. Fill any voids or recesses in the metal work with modeling clay, it precludes the invassion of the excess bedding compound and thus heads off any mechanical bond being formed between the metal and the stock. Use the clay that soesn't harden, it's oil based and can be re-used many times.. I prefer the gel material for it's tendancy to stay where it's put. I use gunsmiths guide screws to form the action screw holes and help keep the bedding from the screw holes in the action. After the metal and stock are totally prepared apply a light coat of the bedding material(mixed according to directions)to the surfaces of the bedded areas, both the stock and the metal. The remainder of the bedding material is put into the inletting in the stock in a row down the center of the recess for the bedding. This material will be forced to the edges and up the sides as the metal in installed in the stock. This will usually eliminate the occurance of air bubbles that can lead to porous bedding. A few tips. The front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug should not touch the bedding mortice in the stock. Do this by using tape applied to the recoil lug before it's waxed. Plastic electrical tape or masking tape will do fine. Clean the metal and get a good bond for the tape, then trim the tape with a sharp knife so the rear of the lug fully contacts the bedding materail. Excess bedding that squeezes out between the metal and the stock can be easily and safely be cut away after it's just reached a hard rubbery state. Use a chisel like tool ground from a hard plastic(I use the handle of an old toothbrush). It will easily cut the bedding away while not damaging the stock or scratching the metal. When the stock is removed from it's bedding the tape is likely to remain in the inletting but can be easily picked out and will allow the barreled action to be easily lifted from its mortise in the stock. Also after the bedding is completely hardened open the action screw holes as the screws must NOT be allowed to touch the bedding material. If they do touch eratic accuracy will result.. I usually remo9ve the metal work after the bedding is hardened but before it's fully cured. This must be done very carefully to avoid damaging the fit. If the bedding is allowed to fully cure the fit can be quite tight. Freezing the stock/barreled action will allow for easier removal.

[bluebayou]

Remington 700
http://www.ranchtrippin.com/bedding/

I agree with this guy that Playdoh is better for damming as it is easier to remove. 
A word to the wise:  my personal mistake one time was not using enough compound the first pour and then trying to repour on top of it.  I did not remove enough release agent and it just made a big sticky mess.  If you have to repour then just router it all out and start fresh. 

There is also an "adhesion promoter" spray that you can buy at an auto parts store for helping paint stick to plastic.  It helps.  Otherwise, try for what is called a "mechanical lock" into the stock.  Picture a trapezoid and how the base is wider than the top.  By undercutting at the front of a mold line or before the recoil lug area you can physically lock the bedding into the stock to keep if from just popping out.  There is a good article by the American Rifleman guy, Bryce Towsley(?) but I can't find it.  If you can't make a locking shape in the bedding channel then at least drill a couple of holes into (but not through) the stock so that the epoxy will have little fingers that stretch into the plastic. 

[georgeld]

Good advice here.

You mentioned Towsley.

I read recently he's got a book out now with a lot of his DIY 'smithing projects.

haven't seen it yet, but, do intend to get one.

Should find it listed at MidwayUSA.

But, go to his own site and check out all his books.

www.brycetowsley.com

Make sure you get enough release agent where it's supposed to be, or you'll have a
ONE piece gun like I do.


After that major screw up, I've changed from doing the job all at once, to doing it in many little steps with epoxy.  So far, they've come out great and without problems.

One thing I do is cut a relief behind the lugs, and insert a small piece of flat steel then bed that in  place.  I feel this gives a much harder and larger surface for the lug to beat against.  Although with everything tight and a perfect bedding job it should not beat at all, as it's a solid fitup.

Good luck, wish you well,

George