Author Topic: My First XBow. (Read 1522 times)

markc · « **on:** October 27, 2006, 03:20:38 PM »

Okay, so I bought a used xbow today. It is a Horton Yukon SL. It came with fiberoptic pins and a rear peep sight, plus a quiver and four carbon bolts. Is anyone familiar with this model? If so, tell me what the dial with 0-9 on the pistol grip is for?

Do most of you use a crank set up to draw back the string? Seems like a chore to sight this in pulling the string back by hand for each shot. Looking forward to getting it going and hitting the woods...

markc · « **Reply #1 on:** October 27, 2006, 03:24:04 PM »

P.S. Any tips on sighting in an xbow? I've sighted in my compound a number of times before, so I assume this bow will be about the same. Any help would be greatly appreciated...

jh45gun · « **Reply #2 on:** October 27, 2006, 06:55:40 PM »

I think Horton just quit making that model for a new model but there is nothing wrong with it, it is a good xbow. OK from what I know about Hortons that adjustment knob in the back is used for the pin set up only if you mount a scope or red dot you leave that alone from what I have heard. I would go to the Horton web site and see if you can download a copy of the manual or call them and ask them for one if you do not have one. Horton makes good xbows. For cocking mark your string on both sides so you see it is centered and you can c-o-c-k by hand if your strong enough other wise folks buy and use a rope cocker that cuts the pulling by half or you can buy a crank set up if you cannot use any of the other methods. Fog sighting in I would get close to the target say five yards and shoot and see where it hits and adjust. Then go to Ten yards set and adjust then out to 20. If your still using the pins then maybe you can play with the elevation knob to see how it affects your shooting at a longer distance. IF you mount a red dot or scope leave it at 0. If you can pull it back by hand that is the fastest but you have to make sure you keep your hands close to the rail and keep the string centered. If you use a rope cocker or a crank it will center it for you. being off center will make it shoot right or left. I can c-o-c-k my Excaliber fine with out getting off center but I have long arms. For others a rope set up or a crank will work better. Yea it takes a bit of work to c-o-c-k them but then after you sight it in it does not seem like so much work. Note most guys make up a arrow for hunting with a target tip or a judo point to shoot into the ground to uncock it as that is the easiest way to do it. IF you try to let it down with your hand it may slip and give you a dryfire which is hard on the limbs and cables. Just aim at the ground and shoot it either from a tree stand or while your standing. To be safe I would shoot it from your stand to uncock it before you get down. Or if you do not hunt from a tree shoot it standing up at the ground so it hits at an angle close to you so you can retrieve the arrow easy.

ihuntbucks · « **Reply #3 on:** October 27, 2006, 09:41:27 PM »

Congrads markc on your "new toy".Jim cover just about everything in his post.One thing thought;if you don't already have some wax for your bow string and for your slide.You can apply the wax to your string by rubbing between your finger to melt it into the string........Rick

jh45gun · « **Reply #4 on:** October 28, 2006, 08:13:18 AM »

Good point Rick I forgot that one

Rick is right rub as much wax into the string and serving as you can and keep rubbing it into the serving it will make the string last longer.

markc · « **Reply #5 on:** October 29, 2006, 03:34:07 PM »

Thanks guys for the tips. I have some string wax that I use for my compound bow. Is that the same stuff for the slide? I did shoot enough this afternoon to sight one pin in at 10 yards. I cocked it by hand, and after a while, the old fingers begin to get a little tender. Hopefully I will find a cocker soon. I willl try to sight the next pin at 20 yards next. I was suprised at how fast the bolt seemed to fly compared to my compound. Might have been my imagination. Also, the 4 carbon bolts that came with the xbow?

I have no idea what brand or whatever they are. There is nothing printed on them at all. There is a new bow shop not to far away, maybe they sell xbows and can tell me what they are so I can buy some more. Hope to be all sighted in and ready to hunt by Thanksgiving.

jh45gun · « **Reply #6 on:** October 29, 2006, 03:49:21 PM »

Good luck hunting let us know how your doing and if you have any more questions just Ask. Horton does make a rail lube that a lot of guys use no matter what xbow they are shooting. It is a silicone based lube. The tube of it seems small but it seems to last a good season anyway. As long as you can find carbon shafts the same weight you should be fine. Go to the Horton website they may be able to tell you what them arrows are if they came with the xbow.

jpred1 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 29, 2006, 04:51:57 PM »

Hey Mark,thats a good bow you have.A buddy of mine has one.He shoots with a red dot,shoots pretty flat out to 30,turn the lil knob and shoots to 40 and so on.I have a barnett xbow and its Ok.Be extremely careful,do not de cock alone,it takes 2 people,one holding string and one pulling trigger.Its just too dangerous.Remember to keep those fingers outta the way,these x bows will cut em off.Id loose those pins and get at least a bsa red dot for @ 10-15 bucks.

jh45gun · « **Reply #8 on:** October 29, 2006, 06:32:26 PM »

Easiest and safest way to decock is to shoot a arrow or bolt if that is what you want to call them

into the ground. Less chance of a dryfire that way.

markc · « **Reply #9 on:** October 31, 2006, 02:52:15 AM »

I use a layered block style target for sighting in my compond and now the xbow, so I guess it would be easy enough to take it along and fire a practice bolt into it to decock. I hope to get by one or more of the local bow shops this week and see if they can determine which weight these bolts are. If not, then after this season, I will start over with some new carbon bolts. I am using 100 grain field points to sight it in. jpred1, I need to look more closely and see if this bow already has what is needed to mount a red dot. I have one Tasco Propoint red dot scope, it might work. It has only one dot though. So I guess I could sight it at 20 yds and either hold over or under for other shots... This thing is neat though and I am glad that I finally bought one..

jh45gun · « **Reply #10 on:** October 31, 2006, 06:11:51 AM »

Yea mark shooting in to a target works nice too as you can check to make sure your on every time you decock it.

jpred1 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 01, 2006, 10:47:49 PM »

With the lil knob on the side of your bow,if its like my friends,will adjust elevation for you.He has the single red dot now and it is set 0-30 yds and just one click puts him on at 40 and so on.Pretty neat feature,it still leaves the distance judgement to shooter but will help compensate drop.I usually judge the distances Ok untill right at dark then everything goes haywire.

jh45gun · « **Reply #12 on:** November 02, 2006, 06:50:47 AM »

From what I have been told that elevation knob is for pins and not scopes but if it works what the heck go for it. Just make sure you keep it tight as I have heard of it coming loose. Also remember to reset it if you use it.

markc · « **Reply #13 on:** November 02, 2006, 02:09:10 PM »

I've just left the knob on 0 while sighting in..I hope that is correct..

jh45gun · « **Reply #14 on:** November 02, 2006, 06:06:03 PM »

Quote from: markc on November 02, 2006, 02:09:10 PM

I've just left the knob on 0 while sighting in..I hope that is correct..

Yep

markc · « **Reply #15 on:** November 06, 2006, 02:44:46 AM »

At Walmart last night I picked up some of those cocking straps for help cocking the xbow, some rail lube and string wax. When do you apply the rail lube and how much of it? Walmart actualy had a couple xbow models for sale and a good number of different bolts, both aluminum and carbon. I wish I knew the weight of the ones that came with my bow. I'm not sure if they are original, or ones the previous owner had purchased later. Thanksgiving is coming up fast, so I need to get the 20yd pin sighted in....

Digger · « **Reply #16 on:** November 06, 2006, 10:06:54 AM »

From the Horton site.

There are three major factors that need consideration to select the best hunting arrow. These three factors are accuracy, down range drop and broadhead penetration. If an arrows weight is too light and fast, you will have a high F.P.S. but the arrow won’t group and may lack the stored foot pounds of energy needed. After reviewing the “Top 10 Guidelines” below on how to best achieve good arrow flight, be sure to also review the below chart of “Down Range Arrow Ballistics”. You will see that light weight fast arrows, that most likely will not group well, do not shoot much flatter at all. Due to the mass wieght of the broadhead very light weight arrows equipped with broadheads tend to be front heavy. Front heavy arrows vary greatly on how they leave the bow of crossbow making downrange groupings inconsistant as well. At the same time, the lighter arrow starts to loose down range foot pounds of energy needed for good penetration. Be sure that you check the warranty of your crossbow since some crossbow warranties are void if arrows under 400 grains are used.

TOP 10 GUIDELINES TO SELECTING A GOOD HUNTING ARROW
Broadhead weight must NOT be MORE than 25% of total arrow weight
Use a mechanical broadhead
If a fixed blade broadhead is used be sure it is a low profile broadhead with a cutting diameter of 1- 1/8” or less
Arrow length of 20” - 22”
Arrow diameter of 22/64th or .34”
Arrow (with broadhead) weight of MORE than 400 grains
Completely straight arrows
Consistent arrow weights
Vane height 1/2” with a length of 4.5” - 5”
Use arrows equipped with Moon nocks (Flat capped nocks should not be used)

markc · « **Reply #17 on:** November 06, 2006, 02:08:48 PM »

Thanks digger. Thats alot to digest, but I will read over it again before I prchase some bolts...

jh45gun · « **Reply #18 on:** November 06, 2006, 04:59:21 PM »

For your other questions I apply rail lube about every 30 shots or maybe less if the rail looks like no lube is on it. You can tell by looking. I put a thin bead down both sides of the rail and then run my finger on the rail both sides to spread the lube. I keep the middle serving well waxed and also the rest of the string.

markc · « **Reply #19 on:** November 07, 2006, 05:12:42 AM »

Thank you. I will wax up and lube the thing before shooting this evening...