Author Topic: Through Bolt  (Read 484 times)

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Offline Don in PA

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Through Bolt
« on: April 17, 2003, 05:50:29 AM »
I would like to put a through bolt on my S/S CPA Stevens. I have the block that will fit between the tangs and the bolt. Now comes drilling the stock. I have a couple of questions and hope you guys can help.

1- What is the best tool to use? Drill press, Lathe, by hand, other
2- What kind of drill? Spade, auger, regular drill, other
3- Rate of feed for the drill?
4- What pit-fall to look out for?

Thank for you help.
Don

Offline John Traveler

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Through Bolt
« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2003, 09:19:01 AM »
Don,

For that deep-hole drilling in the buttstock, I would insist on using either 1.  engine lathe or 2.  drill press.  Both with suitable large vise blocks & clamps.  An unshaped blank is much easier to clamp.

You need good tool rigidity and perfect alignment to do the job right.  Only one chance, you know.  You do NOT want to experience that gut-wrenching sensation of seeing the drill bit come out the side of a beautiful block of AA Select Fancy grade of walnut!

A speed-bore spade bit, properly sharpened will do the trick.  Use a sturdy extension to make it long enough to reach thru in one pass.  An auger-type bit would work, but you would have to grind off the square shank to fit the chuck.

1.  Lathe is easier.  Use spacers and clamps to hold the work to the carriage/crossfeed/compound.  If you have a milling attachment, use it.  Use the carriage handwheel to feed the work into the tool bit held in a three-jaw chuck.  The carriage will give you plenty of lateral feed to do it in one pass. Use the tailstock handwheel for more pressure if needed.

2.  On the drillpress, use vise and clamps to hold it securely.  The drill press quil may or may not have enough movement to drill through in one pass.  If you don't have enough movement, then stop, adjust the table up (with drill inside hole) and continue.

Alignment is critical.  Measure and clamp everything carefully.

Use a speed suitable for that size bit (1/2", 5/8", 3/4", whatever).  Maybe 400-1000 rpm. You will be able to "feel" the proper feed rate.


HTH
John
John Traveler

Offline Don in PA

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Through bolt
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2003, 01:54:21 PM »
John
Thanks for the reply.
The stock I'm going to drill is semi-finished and a beautiful piece of wood. I'm trying to get as much info about drilling the stock before I do the work. None of my gunsmith book deal with this topic  

I have a feeling the type of drill used for this project is going to be very important.  I was thinking of two types.

First, a forstner type of drill. I would starts the hole with a regular bit then finish with the forstner. From what I understand this type of drill has less tendency to follow the grain. expecially when drilling end grain.  

Second, use a regular wood auger bit with the screw point and one lip ground off. This style of drill was used by ship and bridge builders for drilling deep holes (6 feet and over). This was done by hand so I don't know if this type of drill will work under power.

When you speed-bore spade bit do you mean the type with the cutting lips. When you say properly sharpened do you mean a special way or just a new bit.

Don

Offline gunnut69

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Through Bolt
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2003, 07:34:49 AM »
Speed bore bits commonly called spade or paddle bits would not be my first choice.  I would use a spur center wood bit.  These have a center spur to help guide the bit and spurs on each side to cut the wood fiber before it's cut by the cutter edges.  They resemble standard metal boring twist drills.  These cut straight and don't tend to follow grain.  I use one of these extended to drill ramrod holes in longrifle stocks.   I would drill under sized and drill from both ends on your buttstock.  This guarantees the hole comes out in exactly the right spot and enters the right spot.  The undersized hole will then guide a properly sized spade bit to provide a clearance sized hole for the bolt shank.  The counterbores for the bolt head/washer assembly and the extension from the drawblock are drilled last.  I would use a drill press and after the through hole is aligned it would become my guide using a steel rod to align with the two counterbores.  The counterbores would be drilled with paddle bits allowing the center spurs to follow the clearance hole.  Sorry if I've not been clear.  Ask if you have further questions.  A simple operation so it seems but one with many ways to go wrong.
gunnut69--
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