Author Topic: Savage Rifles are getting my interest (Read 2833 times)

WW1 · « **Reply #30 on:** September 28, 2005, 07:50:58 AM »

I am a lefty and for that reason I got started with Savage...first one was a 110CL in 1971...now I only own Savage and Ruger #1's...as for changing cals on a Savage, it is faily easy compared to others...in fact you can buy all the tools and after market barrels at Midway...I had a Smith turn my 110 234 Win into a slick 260 Rem with a take off Savage barrel I aquired...you will need some good vises for the change, which I didnt have, so it was worth the $30 he charged me to take off one barrel, install the other and head space it..the "UGLY" barrel nut everyone complains about is the key to the ease of the change..I have 5 Savage rifles that date from 1971 to 2004 and they all shoot great...I have one with the accu-trigger, and personaly I cant understand the raving over the oler ones..I mean it is very nice, and has one adjustment for weight of pull, but I still have the booklet that came with my first 110 in 30-06 and it has detailed instructions on how to adjust all 4 screws...I did my first rifle and all the rest after that and they all let go around 2 3/4 pounds according to my trigger guage...opps I am getting long winded...I wish I had the exact date, but I believe Guns and Ammo ran an article telling about the cal change and Savage...was a good article and they directed you to Midway for parts and tools.just my thoughts....WW1

PS: I am not sure I would trust the way of checking the head space in the article that was posted...compared to blowing up a rifle it seems the price of go/no go guages are worth the money..must of the barrel nuts are easy to get off according the the people who supply the barrels for Midway, but the smioth I took mine too had to use a light hammer on the barrel wrench...we found some light rust on the threads explaining why...also am not sure about the way he head spaced in the article, but if using the guages, you need to take out the extrated from the bolt or you will set the space wrong...the directions come with the wrench...and if you notice, the wrench has 2 ends, one is for the old style nut and one fits the new style nut...if I decide I domnt like the 260 Rem I can always change to another cal that will fit my short action ...anyway hope you guys have fun...ever pick up a used gun and dont like the trigger pull let me know I can send you the directi9ons for proper adjustment...just my thoughts....WW1

riddleofsteel · « **Reply #31 on:** September 28, 2005, 10:34:59 AM »

A friend of mine was recently looking for a 500+ yard rifle in .308. I told him about my experiences with building my Savage .270 and the advantages of the Savage line of rifles. He turned the same deaf ear that I used to all those years I ignored Savage and bought Remingtons, Brownings, ect.
Recently he brought by a Remington Police type sniper rifle in .308 with a factory H&S Precision stock and a heavy barrel. We walked out to the range and fired a few groups at 100, 200, and 500 yards. I have around $600.00 in my .270 Savage. He would not tell me what he paid for the Remington. Long story short, My little sporter weight Savage out shot his "sniper" rifle. My aggregate grouping was .605 MOA. His rifle was shooting somewhat erratically. His averages were closer to 1.25 MOA.
I have no doubt we can make the Remington shoot. I disassembled the rifle and noticed the bedding screws were under torqued and the recoil lug was not making even rear contact with the stock. I expect it to respond well to a mini bedding job and the judicious use of an inch/pound torque wrench. However, I did not lose the opportunity for a little tongue in cheek ribbing about his choice of rifles.

LOL
:wink:

coyote 2 · « **Reply #32 on:** September 28, 2005, 04:48:50 PM »

I just purchased the model 12 stainless varmint rifles with the laminated stock, heavy fluted barrel, oversize bolt knob and accutrigger in 223 -
very nice...... :lol:

csam · « **Reply #33 on:** October 23, 2005, 05:01:52 PM »

I have 300 win mag 112 FSAK that will hold 5/8" all day long - if I can. Shoots to the same point of impact with every type of ammo I throw in it.

The barrel nut didn't stick out to me until I started reading the forums. A model 70 is nice to look at, but I never saw the Rem 700 as a thing of beauty either. Take a look at the left side of a mod 700 and a Savage and the only real difference is the barrel nut, and I can look past that at sub inch groups and it looks even better!

lilabner · « **Reply #34 on:** October 25, 2005, 07:12:40 AM »

I researched pretty hard before I bought my first Savage. What really sealed the deal for me was going to benchrest.com and visiting the factory rifle forum. Benchrest shooters know accuracy and Savage got many kind words from them. I'm planning to buy a short magnum and it will be another Savage. no question about it.

bajabill · « **Reply #35 on:** October 26, 2005, 07:23:46 AM »

Quote from: coyote trapper1928

Does Savage make a Left hand bolt action rifle with a walnut stock?

I dont think they make a LH model in a walnut stock. They do make a "walnut finished hardwood" stock LH model, quite a few of them, but the 14 and 114 classic series with WALNUT wood are RH only. Slight difference on paper, big difference in real life.

They do make a few LH laminate options now, thanks Savage. Every year they switch it up a little for us lefties.