ok how do you adjust timing on handi?

[wileynet]

sent my lates sons 06 in for light primer strikes they replaced a lot and adjusted the (timing), new revolvers could be timed, just never heard of it before

[tacklebury]

My guess would have to do with the hammer transfer plate angle and length.  This would change the point when the hammer hits the plate and could make for lighter strikes.  That'd be my guess anyway. 

[keith44]

My guess would have to do with the hammer transfer plate angle and length.  This would change the point when the hammer hits the plate and could make for lighter strikes.  That'd be my guess anyway. 

Best guess here too, add the trigger to that arrangement though.  Once the sear is tripped it is the trigger that holds the transfer bar in alignment for the hammer strike.

[trotterlg]

The transfer bar system depends on the trigger continuing back after the hammer is released so it holds the transfer bar up.  A heavy trigger pull sort to insures this, but a very light pull adjustment will require you to pull the trigger all the way back when fireing the gun, unlike a bolt gun which probably will have an adjustment to limit trigger over travel.  Larry

[JB White]

For the sake of clarity, I'm guessing that by adjusting the timing they meant lock time?

[keith44]

For the sake of clarity, I'm guessing that by adjusting the timing they meant lock time?

No


Lock time is the time between pulling the trigger and the firing pin hitting the primer


Timing is the swing of the hammer reaching the end of it's journey with the transfer bar not falling out of place...

[LaOtto222]

+1 on Keith 44

The only thing that can be "timed" is the transfer bar. I once over stoned a trigger/hammer and no matter what I did (even jerking the trigger and holding back), I got light strikes, no strikes and some times it would fire. Every time the hammer would stay in it's cocked position, until I pulled the trigger. The only solution was to replace the trigger and hammer. So I would say the "timing" was not so good.

Adjusting the timing would be how high the transfer bar is when the hammer falls. In my case, the transfer bar was not coming up far enough to be between the hammer and the firing pin. I assume this is because when the trigger was pulled the hammer was falling too soon and not letting the transfer bar up far enough. When I changed out the hammer and trigger, I changed the timing. If I pulled the trigger all the way back, the transfer bar would go plenty high, but the hammer was falling before I got the hammer pulled far enough to get the transfer bar all the way up.

I know that many times it has been said in this forum to pull the trigger all the way back, even after the hammer falls. I think if the timing is good, that the lock time is so short that you can not get the hammer to fall and release the trigger in time to get the transfer bar out of the way. However, if the timing is poor, then pulling the hammer all the way back maybe needed to get reliable primer strikes. I think that this a bad situation and should be rectified. It has to effect accuracy, if you have to pull the trigger all the way back to get reliable primer strikes.


Good Luck and Good Shooting

[JB White]

For the sake of clarity, I'm guessing that by adjusting the timing they meant lock time?

No


Lock time is the time between pulling the trigger and the firing pin hitting the primer


Timing is the swing of the hammer reaching the end of it's journey with the transfer bar not falling out of place...

Now I understand! Thanks.

[blind ear]

+1 on Keith 44

The only thing that can be "timed" is the transfer bar. I once over stoned a trigger/hammer and no matter what I did (even jerking the trigger and holding back), I got light strikes, no strikes and some times it would fire. Every time the hammer would stay in it's cocked position, until I pulled the trigger. The only solution was to replace the trigger and hammer. So I would say the "timing" was not so good.

Adjusting the timing would be how high the transfer bar is when the hammer falls. In my case, the transfer bar was not coming up far enough to be between the hammer and the firing pin. I assume this is because when the trigger was pulled the hammer was falling too soon and not letting the transfer bar up far enough. When I changed out the hammer and trigger, I changed the timing. If I pulled the trigger all the way back, the transfer bar would go plenty high, but the hammer was falling before I got the hammer pulled far enough to get the transfer bar all the way up.

I know that many times it has been said in this forum to pull the trigger all the way back, even after the hammer falls. I think if the timing is good, that the lock time is so short that you can not get the hammer to fall and release the trigger in time to get the transfer bar out of the way. However, if the timing is poor, then pulling the hammer all the way back maybe needed to get reliable primer strikes. I think that this a bad situation and should be rectified. It has to effect accuracy, if you have to pull the trigger all the way back to get reliable primer strikes.


Good Luck and Good Shooting

-
And I was just about to get up enough courage to tear mine down and try to correct missfires. Geeeezzzzz! ear   

[LaOtto222]

Do not tell anyone, but I corrected mine with a "golden" hammer and new trigger. I then got rid of the transfer bar. I did a new trigger job and the pull is real nice with no more misfires. No more worries about timing.

Good Luck and Good Shooting