You can hear about Rem700 from a man in a third world country.
Okay, i live in Indonesia, an half of the world from you.
I shoot benchrest, target/positions shooting, and of course, also Hunting. I know many rifles both from Europe and America, as like Remington etc. I have one Rem700 in .223 now and have a .308 before (rebarreled from a .243).
I gunsmith all my rifles myself and also built my own action/rifle (a .308) with all the limitations/conditions i have here.
IMHO, Remington700's action is a well design action. Very simple but (relatively) rigid. For the action, it is easy to check/work the "squareness" in a lathe, easy to be "trued" for the tread/receiver (the bolt, too)...basically easy(easier) to work to reach "inline/axis" thing - with the bore. The other thing is easy to bed because of the round receiver, i can always have same p.o.i. when i asembly/disasembly my barreled action, too.
The trigger also simple and can be adjusted easily by its 3 adjustment's screws.
*FYI, that's why i design and built my own action with some of Remington's design as my reference. (except of some of Sako75 and Steyr SSG's design).....Same round receiver and similar "looking" with 700 action. Just different bolt lugs (mine has 2 X 3 lugs), different "cut-outs" (smaller cartidge "port" and a single shot), different extractor and case ejector (mine use a small claw extractor and the case ejector is like Sako75), and different recoil lug (mine use a bigger "fix" recoil lug under the reciever). Also improved trigger design and mechanism. Also lighter(very light) firing pin and shorter travel of the pin to reach faster lock time....and so on. It has a Hart ss bbl in 1:10 twist, 23" length and of course a quarter minute rifle for the accuracy! (with "proper" ammo). Have won some 1st place benchrest matches here (300m) while my competitors use Sauer, Sako, Steyr, Winchester, Remington, Voere, etc.
(*unfortunately i don't know how to attach pics in this forum?).
But in other side, what i found with Remington(700) is...my "new" Rem isn't as good as my old Rem. My new Rem is ROUGH both for the receiver (inner side-the metalwork) and the bolt (the bolt face and lugs). The bolt's jewelling was worn out/damaged after some bolt engages...The bluing finish also not good, not as "tough/rust proof" as my old Rem....
Luckily, i have all the skills to make it right.
For the trigger, which was "very heavy" before, i set it to about 1.3lb- safely...but after some weeks, i found that the primary sear (with its "hard nickel plating?") was worn out/peel out!...The metal used for the primary sear also not good, not "hard" exactly. (not as hard as the European and my old Rem)....This make un-consistent trigger pull, sometimes light, sometimes rather hard....
Because of this, then i "stone" and polish the sears again. But it work just in some weeks.....Two times i done that.....Finally i change the primary sear with a new one (my own made primary sear and trigger parts - for a more secure and dependable thing)...now it is more crisp, light, and constant 1,1 lb pullweight trigger. No "worn out" etc and have shot hundreds of rounds and hundreds of dry firing practice without any changes/problem. No "slamfire" etc even i knock the rifle hard (in every directions).
***(This is also for input for you about the Rem factory's trigger...DO NOT try to "stone" and/or polish the sears because the material used is not good...the trigger isn't designed for a light pullweight, too. This is also horrible if you don't have smithing skill!).
I just guess that "now quality" Remington rifle is lessen??...not as good as the old(er) one.
My "new" Rem's barrel is a heavy ss fluted 26" barrel. The flutes are very bad, imo (not straight flutes). The barrel has some scratches, too (i don't know if it is from Remington's factory or from my dealer??).
For 3 or 4 times i have contact Remington about this, but never have any reply from them!!...(mad).
Luckily, i still have even under 1" at 100m - 5 shots. This is usually after i clean the bore...(and of course after some rifle's tunings/treatments).
Now, my question is (just curious to know)...do you always have good results/groupings right after you clean your bore???....
What i mean is...If i shot more than 10 rounds or so, i found that my grouping is ALWAYS getting larger IF i don't clean my bore....(the difference are relatively big)....though i wait to cool down the barrel etc....(confused??)
*I have no much experience with .223 caliber, but some of my friends here also have the same experience with me.
Somebody have the same problem?....
Best Regards,
Sebastian.
*Please forgive me for my english...i don't speak and write english well, i believe....