Rifle building question

[hpdrifter]

Hello.  Am new to the new sight.  Been registered awhile, but mainly just been reading.  Participated a bit more at the old site.

Anyhoo, seems like a pretty knowledgeable base here and I've been building a 54 Lemans rifle from Pecatonica Rifle complany parts.

Got everything inletted, most of the metal shaped and shined.  All I lack is finish work and to cut dovetails for sights.

But, I got a question on the stock "proportions".  In front of the lock area, where it melds into the forearm there is a slow taper away from the lock mortise moldings.  I was a wondering if the lock mortise molding should "round" into the forearm dimensions or should there be that slow taper into the forearm.  Seems to me, from the few pictures of "originals" that the cuts and flow of the rifle are more pronounced and you can tell a "kit" gun from a proffessionals work by the finished dimensions and the way they flow together.  The same question could be asked about the rear of the lock area where it turns into the wrist area.  This is supposed to be a plain jane Lemans with just a incised line or two, nothing fancy.  Just a working man's gun.

I don't want to fool someone into thinkin I'm a pro, but I'd like a nice well proportioned rifle when finished.  I really don't want a rifle that is worth "less' than the sum of it's parts.

If there are any rifle/gun builders here, I'd sure like to know about these two areas of stock work. In detail if at all possible.

Thanks,
Rick

[captchee]

Well it al depends on what your making . Trade rifles  usually were  quickly made  so often you would see the lock mortise” this is the area around the lock “ simply feather down to the  for stock.
 Higher end models have a distinct lip ,,, more like a frame  that surrounds the lock and  then drops of sharply . While these are rounded and smooth they are distinctly  raised above the surrounding area 
something like these

[hpdrifter]

captchee, I follow and understand what you are saying, but my question is a bit more refined.

I know the lock mortise moldings on nicer guns were raised and had a radius fall into the fore stock.  My question is; on these higher end guns, where the lock mortise joins the forestock at the end of the raidus is the forestock the same dimensions or cross section as the cross-section in the middle of the forestock, say at the first barrel pin, and just before the entry thimble.

Or to put is another way, does the forestock hold the same cross-section until the lock mortise begins to rise from it.  My stock is thicker and flared for about 4" in front of the mortise, after the mortise radiuss from the stock.  Was that extra left for fancy carving or is it supposed to gently angle into the forestock.

Thanks

Oh, I meant to say; Nice looking rifles.  the one(flinter, early Charleville looking lock; not to awfully educated on models) on the red trade blanket(?) is the only one I could tell any thing from and it looks like the forestock holds the same crosssection going into the lock mortise; kind like the lock mortise is another piece glued onto the stock and the forestock travels on thru the lock area into the wrist.

[captchee]

 I must apologize I guess I miss understood . I thought your question was on the mortise  and how it came to the forestock . You  have not said if this is a full stock leman  Trade rifle or a ½ stock ?

 If I read your question correctly its:
 does the forestock hold the same dimension IE side to side thickness  forward to the entry .

  Again that depends on the  design  of the stock .
 Normally the forestock will hold the same detention  on the sides and bottom  from the lock mortise forward   .     . Its common also to have a  narrowing to the nose cap , if you have one . This however should be gradual and not abrupt .
 Your lock mortise should be raised above this plain .
The bottom should be rounded  not square  with rounded corners .

 Now what will change is the area right along the barrel when viewed from the top  .  While the dimension of the forestock stay or gradually tapers  in width, in   this area the shape changes  greatly  .
 This would be that for say 4 inches or so  in front of the mortises the wall  thickness will be ?? Say 3/16 ,,, it will then start to narrow down  and within another 8 to 10 inches  be but   a fine line  say of 1/16
Now how fine that  and fast this gets depends on  your eye and what you like . Keep  again this is the area on both sides of the barrel , just in front of the  mortises , when viewed from the top . This also concerns shaping of this area  with both side having the same contour


 The later , “common place”  plains rifles, were often  blocky  while the earlier long rifles  have fine lines of grace . .

 Normally   I figure on   having to take a minimum of 3/16   completely off on  custom stocks . Production kits that’s more to a ¼ as normally they are way to heavy.
 Once you have the lines down  and the shape to what your happy with  you then start the finish sanding or scraping  and boning.
 Once you  think the stock is about ready to apply stain or oil ,,, that’s when you do your carving or engraving   .
 While it may look as if the carving is very raised , its not . You will find most to be 1/16 or less deep .
 Another thing to remember  is incise carving ,,, is much ,much , much harder then the fancy relief carving  .
 With relief carving a person and make a mistake and simply change the design or clean things up . With incise carving ,,, once you make that line , it very , very hard to  correct   and almost impossible to remove.
With Incise carving  you get one chance , that’s it .

 I once again must apologize as sometimes I have a hard time explaining .  If im still confusing you  let me know and I will  make up some quick “general “drawings

[hpdrifter]

Thanks captchee, I think you answered the question at hand.  At least I think so.  Building a full stocker.

The subject at hand is rather hard to convey in written words, at least.  Especially with my communication skills.  I expected I'd have to post a couple of times to really explain what I was talkin about.

Appreciate your time and effort.