Author Topic: Trigger adjustment on Remington 700 (Read 2510 times)

markdeerhunter · « **on:** November 12, 2004, 03:32:38 AM »

Does the Rem. 700 require a gunsmith to lower the trigger pull ?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 12, 2004, 04:19:38 AM »

In short, NO, a gunsmith is NOT required. The Remington 700 has a fully adjustable trigger, which means you can adjust the pull weight, the sear engagement(creep) and the overtravel. One must follow the directions carefully and if one does not there are dangers. At one time the directions for trigger adjustment were in the handbook which accompanied each rifle. I don't know if they are still there but doubt it. Remington has lost a couple of lawsuits and has become a bit wary. The truth of course is that for the tragedies to have happened the persons involved had to have acted in an irresposible manner and of course the rifle was at fault. Triggers are really not all that complex although the remington does have an extra piece. After adjusting the trigger be sure to apply a locking material to the screws to avoid their moving accidentally..

AAAJohn · « **Reply #2 on:** November 13, 2004, 03:47:38 AM »

I trashed my trigger on my 700 BDL 223 by going by the directions that someone posted. It said to back all screws and start from there.
Do not back out the front top screw, the one closes to the reciever. The gunsmith said it lets something drop out of place and it's under spring tension, and since the trigger is riveted together there is no fixing it. I had to order a new one and have him install it for me. I could have probably installed it but since he already had the gun trying to fix the factory trigger I locked up I let him do it. I have found the only screw that I need to adjust is the bottom front screw that reduces the weight of pull. As has been said put some locktight back on after adjusting. If u adjust the rear screw the rifle can fail to cock or be easy to discharge from a jolt.
If I'm wrong someone with more knowledge can chime in.

Ramrod · « **Reply #3 on:** November 13, 2004, 01:37:33 PM »

try one of these..
http://www.clcweb.net/Shooting/Rifle_Trigger_Adjustments/rifle_trigger_adjustments.html
http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/RemingtonTriggers.asp

AAAJohn, backing the screws off means removing the tension, maybe 1/4 turn or so, not removing them. There are some saftey checks that need to be made after these adjustments.
P.S. Over the last 20 years or so, American made guns turned to crap. Blame it on the lawyers, blame it on corporate greed, blame it on whatever, they are crap. My new CZ 527 has a set trigger, and has complete trigger adjustment instructions in the owners manual. It adjusts alot like the Remington. Last shotgun I bought was a Beretta. Next rifle on my wish list is a CZ 550. I just might never buy an American made gun again.

Coal River Rat · « **Reply #4 on:** November 13, 2004, 04:20:46 PM »

You can adjust just the bottom screw to lower the poundage, but I wouldn't. The sear engagement will need adjusting also. I would also adjust the creep and overtravel to suit your tastes. I guess where I'm leading is, have someone with experience show you the proper way to do a trigger job or find a good smith that will let you watch, and ask questions, that will charge you a fair price. IMO the 700 trigger is awesome when adjusted correctly and very dangerous when it's not. By going about things the correct way the 700 trigger can go very light and crisp and most importantly, safe. The wrong way the gun could go off when the bolt is slammed shut or when the gun is dropped accidently. Good Shooting!

dave375hh · « **Reply #5 on:** November 14, 2004, 03:32:00 AM »

Right off the top I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, but if your asking this question then you probably should take it to a gunsmith. I've done dozens of them and have a good idea how, and what can and can't be done. Take my word for it learning can be, and usually is, very expensive. If you only have one or two to do, take it to a pro. You'll be better off in the long run. I fubar'ed two of them and had to replace them(they both came in at the same time and messed up after the fact) DON"T USE LOCKTITE!!! on the screws.

Graybeard · « **Reply #6 on:** November 14, 2004, 04:02:29 AM »

Quote

The sear engagement will need adjusting also.

NO NO NO

Bad info. This is where folks go wrong and mess up R700 triggers and make things dangerous. There is hardly ever a good reason to change this setting as set at the factory. IF it really does then it is not a job for someone who's asking questions about the how of it. It's a job for a gunsmith. Playing with this one at home is the reason the R700 has developed a bit of a reputation for dangerous triggers.

DO NOT ADJUST THAT SCREW. For get it is even there.

Coal River Rat · « **Reply #7 on:** November 14, 2004, 07:48:41 PM »

Deleted

Graybeard · « **Reply #8 on:** November 14, 2004, 07:56:58 PM »

Coal River Rat, that's not a quote of anything I said.

I might be wrong but I don't think you can make the rifle dangerous with the pull adjustment screw. You can stop it from firing but not make it dangerous.

I've NEVER EVER one single time messed with the sear adjustment or felt any need to. I can get the triggers down to a safe 3 pounds without it. None of my have any creep or over travel I can tell. I buy hardly anything but R700s and do all of my own trigger work. I use ONLY the pull weight adjustment screw and get nice light hunting weight trigger pulls with no need for more.

On Varmint rifles I do same and have had no trouble shooting groups in the .2's and .3's with them. So I'd guess the triggers must be at least OK.

You do as you like. BUT I still say if you have to ask you have no business messing with anything more than the pull weight adjustment screw. What a professional gunsmith does or the factory does or even what an experienced and knowledgeable home smith does is another story and not what a tyro needs to do. That and that alone is my point.

markdeerhunter · « **Reply #9 on:** November 15, 2004, 10:24:37 AM »

Tanks, I am taking it to a gunsmith for adjustment. I didn't know if I had to buy an aftermarket trigger because the manual said not to adjust the trigger.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 15, 2004, 12:12:27 PM »

The remington trigger can indeed be disassembled and worked on. I've had several apart to correct problems caused by owners... The sear adjustment is a delicate thing but can be adjusted. If you don't know how the don't try. The real problem with the M700 trigger is that extra part I spoke of. It's not under spring control and can fail to reset if there is resistance, like gummy oil or rust,etc.. This failure to reset can allow the trigger to release as the safety is moved to the fire position. This was ammeriliorated a bit by remington changing the trigger to allow the bolt to open with the safety still engaged. Older M700's can have this alteration done with ease. Keep the triggers clean and the trigger will funchtion just fine. The sear engagement can usually be seen thru a port in the trigger housing but I too would advise the average owner from altering the factory setting. There is no screw on the M700 trigger you can back out that would create a situation that could not be fixed..I repeat,,, There is no screw on the m700 trigger you can unscrew that would create a situation that could not be fixed. Perhaps the smith simply didn't feel comfortable with the job..

Judson · « **Reply #11 on:** November 17, 2004, 12:45:46 PM »

If a gunsmith is really a gunsmith then the disassembly and re assembly of the Remington trigger is a simple matter!!!! The "Gunsmith" who told you you needed a new trigger either did not know what he was doing or wanted to sell you a trigger. I must agree with a lot of you guys, if you have to ask then it is probably best to take the rifle to a gunsmith if it needs adjusting. Remington triggers are rather easy to adjust though the factory spring belongs in the front of a truck and not a trigger. I usually change the pull weight spring. If you ask your gunsmith real nice he may show you how to adjust these triggers but again if you do not know what you are doing it is best to go to the gunsmith.

AAAJohn · « **Reply #12 on:** November 17, 2004, 03:29:43 PM »

I don't remember the old triggers on the 700, but the one on my new 700 bdl 223 is riveted together and the gunsmith said they are stamp and riveted together and couldn't be taken apart. I'll have to look at one on my old 660 and see if it can be taken apart.
What do you guys do? Do you file off the rivets. Anymore I just reduce the poundage screw.

Iowegan · « **Reply #13 on:** November 17, 2004, 06:34:51 PM »

AAAJohn, There is one drive pin that looks like a rivet that you can drive out of the trigger group. It is the fulcrum pin. Before you drive the pin out you have to remove the lower front screw and spring. The trigger and trigger bar will fall out of the bottom after the pin is out. Once apart, you can clean the factory gummy stuff, rust, etc and dress the lower sear. All of the 700 triggers come apart, maybe its just your gunsmith's way of saying don't mess with it or maybe they just don't know.

I got scolded the last time 700 triggers came up on this forum. After thinking about it, Graybeard's idea is best...don't mess with the screws or take the assembly apart unless you really know what you are doing. I'm also convinced that if Remington was so goosy about playing with the screws, they would have made the trigger without adjustments. A blurb in the instructions seems like an invitation to diddle.

dave284 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 18, 2004, 06:49:01 PM »

As far as if you have to ask don't do it...... BULL. How do you ever learn anything if you don't ask or just jump in and do it? In this situation asking is the very responsible thing to do. The internet is full of good instructions on how to do it. Look at several and print them out to keep with you as a guide. When you have found 2 or three that agree with the proper procedure you have found the correct one. MAKE SURE TO DO ALL THE SAFETY CHECKS AFTERWARD. IF IT FAILS EVEN ONCE GO BACK AND REDO IT!!!!!!

Yes it can be made unsafe by adjusting only the wieght screw. About the third time I attemted adjusting a 700 trigger it went off just shutting the bolt (it wasn't loaded).That's when I got busy and found the proper way of doing it.

If a "gunsmith" tells you that you screwed it up beyond repair just by turning the screws run do not walk away. Either he is dumber in the head than a hog in the azz, or he thinks he found himself a sucker.

If you are remotely mechanically inclined it is no big deal take take ALL parts out of the trigger housing and put them back in. The first time or two may take an hour or so but after you do a few it speeds up considerably. The pin through the housing does not need to be taken out. The housing stays assembled and the trigger, sear and other parts come out of it. The housing does come apart from the receiver. Think of it in terms of rebuilding an engine. You pull the engine out of the vehicle, then you pull the pistons out of the block. You do not disassemble the block.

To make the adjustment the trigger does have to be on the action and there is no need to remove the internals unless you are going to stone them some. That I do not recomend, unless you have studied it in several books and are willing to risk having to buy additional parts and maybe pay a smith to fit them properly.

Good luck,
Dave.

Aardvark · « **Reply #15 on:** November 19, 2004, 04:37:49 PM »

Throw your warranty out the window or use it to kindle your next barbeque when you adjust a new Remington trigger.
I just bought a new Remington 700 and it has one of the best triggers of any of my "Superior" Mauser guns.
Each gun I own has a different feel on the break and I have to adjust to them all. Just like having kids, you cant expect they'll all be the same.

deerhunter10 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 26, 2004, 08:02:22 PM »

I wanted to adjust my trigger as well on m700, but it wasn't in my manuel. I called remington for directions on how to adjust it, and they told me that I couldn't, and had to send it back to remington or it would void any warrenty. I took it to my only gun smith in town and he charged me $80 and it's been great ever since.
RC