Author Topic: front sight staking on 1911 (Read 822 times)

greer · « **on:** April 06, 2004, 04:43:06 PM »

I "little job" that I seem to always have trouble with is staking the front sight on a 1911 style pistol. I position the pistol in a machinist's vice upside down with the front sight sitting square against the bottom of the vice. I have a staking tool and I try to do what the directions and books say but the sight always wants to back out a little instead of drawing down tight against the barrel as I peen it. The tool I have came from Brownell's. Is there a procedure that I am missing, or a tool that is more effective. Thanks. greer

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 07, 2004, 05:11:54 AM »

I apply a bit of a bevel to the inside of the slide in the slot for the sight stem. Also I would advise a clamp to hold the slide down on the sight before commencing the staking process.

Flint · « **Reply #2 on:** April 07, 2004, 06:56:20 AM »

Don't clamp the sides of the slide in the vise, you will keep the slide from pressing tight into the sight. At King's Gun Works, they stake on an anvil, holding the slide down against the sight, do not restrict the vertical movement. As mentioned, put a chamfer on the inside edges of the slot. The staking tool is good.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 07, 2004, 03:53:14 PM »

Flint- you misunderstand. The Sight is clamped in the vise. The slide is placed upside down on top and I use a clamp to hold it donw onto the sight blade while staking.. The slide is quite free to move down over the sight. It is just restrained as I found this a 3 handed job!

Flint · « **Reply #4 on:** April 07, 2004, 07:25:47 PM »

The sight should rest on the surface, not clamped. You may be getting bounce, or you are driving the sight away like a cueball when you hit. The sight needs a solid backing. What sight are you installing? the best have the staking lug the same width as the sight, rather than the thinner one that is the Colt stock. We used a stepped swage to cut the rectangular hole with a mill (not spinning), then chamfered the inside edges. After staking you may have to clean up the staked material flush with the slide's bore to let the barrel bushing enter.

greer · « **Reply #5 on:** April 08, 2004, 02:26:43 AM »

Thanks for the responses. Is there a jig available that would hold the slide and the sight in proper alignment while the staking is done? I didn't see one in brownell's although I saw one being used in my manual. I almost think it would be worth cutting a dovetail and using that type front sight. The new Springfield that I was working on had the narrow tenon hole. I don't know why they all don't go to the wide tenon or better yet the dovetail system like Kimber. greer

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 08, 2004, 04:12:20 AM »

It really doesn't matter which sight you are installing as all have a 'ledge' where the sight is stopped from entering the slide. The clamp provides enough downward tension on the slide that it cannot 'bounce' when the tenon is struck. I usually install the sight the owner wishes and have found little difference in the thick/thin tenon sights, as long as the sight and it's hole fit well. The dovetail is undoubtedly a much better option. I am afraid I don't know what a stepped swage is in conjunction with cutting a rectangular hole. Are you speaking of a broach?

Flint · « **Reply #7 on:** April 08, 2004, 05:58:16 AM »

Yes, _ meant a broach, my mind was not bringing up the word last night.