« previous next »
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: WORK HARDEN COPPER  (Read 828 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline bullet maker

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 979
  • Gender: Male
WORK HARDEN COPPER
« on: April 06, 2004, 11:10:07 AM »
Hi guy`s and gal`s :D
  How does everyone work harden their copper cup`s? Rather words, what process, do you use, to work harden the copper cup`s after you have cut to length and run them through the dia, die? i assume that`s what you call it, and then the next process would be to work harden them, so as to make them a little more pliable. what do you use for heat, etc.
   Maybe this subject has been brought up before, but I couldn`t find it on this forum. Thanks  :D
bullet maker :D
Logged
I like to make bullets, handload, shooting of all types, hunting, fishing, taking pictures, reading, grandchildren, 4 wheeling, eating out often.

Offline talon

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (4)
  • A Real Regular
  • *****
  • Posts: 553
  • Gender: Male
WORK HARDEN COPPER
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2004, 01:23:46 PM »
Every time you 'work' copper it hardens. When you send it thru a JRD it hardens... when you swage a lead core in a jacket and it expands it hardens... when you make a tube jacket by rolling over one of its ends it hardens it. putting a point on a bullet hardens the jacket. That's why you apply a certain amount of heat for a certain amount of time... to anneal (soften) the copper. A good jacket is one with just 'enough' anneal... just the correct amount of hardness... to do the job. I'm sure there's a psi number for this grade of tensile strength, but it varies for the type of copper alloy you are working with. There is an article in Vol III of Corbin's handbooks that talks to this subject. A swager just has to get a "feel" for the correct amount of hardness/toughness it takes to make a good bullet. I use a propane torch to heat (anneal)  the jacket to a dull red. That takes about 15 seconds with a 30 cal jacket... a bit longer for a 458 with .030 walls.  This is done with a small propane torch with a flame spreader after the jackets been worked one way or another just before the core seating operation. I have also found that some bought jackets need annealing right out of the box and some don't. The best way to tell is if the 'spring-back' after core seating doesn't leave the diameter at about .0005" less than the finished bullet is suppose to be: if it'd more than this, say .0009 or .0011 less, annealing helps. But, if too much heat is applied, you don't get a decent nose formed ( wrinkles). After making a bullet that's been annealed, if you want it can be 'beautified' by tumbling. For myself, I like the mottled appearance.8)
Logged

Offline bullet maker

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 979
  • Gender: Male
WORK HARDEN COPPER
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2004, 03:19:54 PM »
OK. thanks Talon :D
   I quess to get a lot of them done, by alot I mean line up about 15 or 20, in a row, and torch them, by moving the torch back and forth till they got cherry red, right? or is there another inexpensive way to do, maybe 50 or 100 at a time? Just seems like someone would have come out with something by now.
thanks for your reply
bullet maker :D
Logged
I like to make bullets, handload, shooting of all types, hunting, fishing, taking pictures, reading, grandchildren, 4 wheeling, eating out often.

Offline talon

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (4)
  • A Real Regular
  • *****
  • Posts: 553
  • Gender: Male
WORK HARDEN COPPER
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2004, 03:45:46 PM »
The process can be as easy as what you suggest, but be careful not to do to many at once. They tend to fall and knock their buddies down if not supported. I do the job in dim light and heat until only a dull red shows. You can do the job on top of firebrick. I use 2 of Corbin's 'egg shell' bricks that have been drilled about 3/16th" deep, with enough holes to hold 50 jackets at a time. As soon as the color shows, I dump them out into a pan and put 50 more jackets in the holes. The brick stays cool, and I don't even bother turning the torch off as it's more trouble restarting it.  You only want to anneal the upper half of the jackets unless you have a special reason to do the whole jacket. 8)
Logged

Offline Donna

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 436
    • http://www.aeroballisticsonline.com
WORK HARDEN COPPER
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2004, 04:31:46 PM »
Hello bullet maker, :D

If you wait till they are cherry red there already gone. A dull barely visible red in a dark room will make a jacket as soft as you’d want to have it. Most people will say to use this method when annealing brass but at this temperature the shoulder of the brass will be too soft. The best method for annealing any metal is to use a “Tempilstik” you can get these at welding supply warehouses, cartridge brass is 662 degree F, and for copper jackets you can find the correct temperature through the technical documentation provided by your local copper and brass supply warehouses.

Donna :wink:
Logged
"Wherefore, my beloved brethren, let every man be swift to hear, slow to speak, slow to wrath: For the wrath of man worketh not the righteousness of God. James 1:19-20

Offline bullet maker

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 979
  • Gender: Male
WORK HARDEN COPPER
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2004, 05:09:15 PM »
OK. Donna, and Talon :D
    thanks alot, there is some good information you both have given me. I got a better understanding now. Hey, once I get my bullet shop cleaned up, I`ll send you`all a picture of it. I`m proud of it. It`s only 16ft x 16ft, but I`ve managed to get a lot of reloading and bullet swaging equipment set up in it. :o
again thanks alot.
bullet maker :D
Logged
I like to make bullets, handload, shooting of all types, hunting, fishing, taking pictures, reading, grandchildren, 4 wheeling, eating out often.
Pages: [1]   Go Up
« previous next »