Author Topic: Which Chronograph should I get?  (Read 853 times)

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Offline Zachary

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« on: March 08, 2004, 04:43:17 PM »
I'm thinking about getting a new Chronograph.  I don't reload, but I do want to know what the muzzle velocity is of each of my loads in different guns.  I don't want anything too fancy, but I DO want something that is high quality and easy to use.  What should I get?

Zachary

Offline TScottO

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2004, 04:50:34 PM »
I picked up a 35p a little while back and don't think I'll ever go back to another brand. It's worth the extra bucks.

Good luck and be safe,
Scott

Offline Zachary

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2004, 05:04:30 PM »
What's a "35p?"  In other words - who makes it?  Also, why wouldn't you go back to any other brand - what features does it have?  Is it easy to use?

Zachary

Offline skippermdj

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Shooting Chrony F1
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2004, 05:39:47 PM »
The bottom-of-the-line.  About $80, IIRC.  Works great.  I jot down the readings between shots, which lets the barrel cool.  Average, min, max, Std. Deviation are calculated by PointBlank, which is PC freeware.  

Chrony makes models with the same basic "guts" but more features like remote readouts, memory, etc.  Oehler also has some nice ones.  

But my Chrony was too cheap to pass up, and for me it was a good choice.  

- Mark

Offline Graybeard

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2004, 12:37:55 AM »
Get an Oehler 35P. Lays the others to shame.

GB


Bill aka the Graybeard
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I am not a lawyer and do not give legal advice.

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Offline Coyote Hunter

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2004, 04:15:56 AM »
Zachary -

The first thing you need to decide is how you will use your new chronograph, then select one accordingly.

For example, I use a Shooting Chrony Master F-1, a pretty basic unit except that it has a remote readout that includes an on/off switch (read 'reset' switch). The remote readout/on-off reset is very handy when you don't have the shooting line to yourself.

When chronographing loads, I use a steno notebook.  At the top of each page I record the date, temperature, wind conditions, range, cartridge, firearm and basic load data (bullet and powder).  I then group shots by powder charge, one line per shot.  Immediately after the velocity I will often record the Point of Impact, so that when reviewing my targets later I will know if a 'flyer' was high or low on velocity compared to what it should have been.

Back at home, I enter the velocity data into a spreadsheet, along with powder charge, group size, range, temperature and wind conditions.  I then let the spreadsheet calculate Average Velocity, Standard Deviation, and Extreme Spread.  (And sometimes Energy at the muzzle, depending on the cartridge.)

As you can see, I have no need for a fancier chronograph since the computer spreadsheet does all the work.

If you are interested, drop me an email and I will send you a copy of the chrono spreadsheet thqt you can use as a template for your own loads.

P.S.  If you don't already have ballistic software, go to www.huntingnut.com and download "Point Blank", an excellent and FREE ballistic program.  (Other programs will do more, but the price is awfully hard to beat - I've been using it for several years now and prefer it to some that cost $50-$60.)
Coyote Hunter
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Offline PaulS

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2004, 02:24:56 PM »
When it comes to a chronograph you have to start by figuring out which features you want and then price the models that have those features. Always buy the best that you can afford - Oehler is the market leader in price and features but not everyone needs the best. Pact makes a good low range and some intermediate range devices that do a good job and Chrony makes the low price favorites. Chrony's lowest price model is infamous for becoming the resting place of pistol and rifle rounds that are fired into the guts of the chronograph - usually killing the machine and requiring a new purchase to replace it.
You will never be disappointed with quality but the savings of the cheap units will disappear soon after your perchase.

paulS
PaulS

Hodgdon, Lyman, Speer, Sierra, Hornady = reliable resources
so and so's pages on the internet = not reliable resources
Alway check loads you find on the internet against manuals.
NEVER exceed maximum listed loads.

Offline Zachary

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2004, 09:20:16 AM »
Thanks to all who replied.  Based on your responses, I think that I'll get the Oehler 35P.  It's the most expensive of all of the chronys, but it should be worth it.

My question is this - where can I buy an Oehler 35P for the lowest possible price?  Do any of our GBO sponsors sell them?

Thanks,
Zachary

Offline Dave in WV

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2004, 09:38:42 AM »
I look at the different brands and think the most expensive part of a chrony is the "box" with the brain. I ask myself, "do I really want the expensive part where a bullet can hit it?" Chrony brand may be good but I wouldn't take the risk. Dave
Setting an example is not the main means of influencing others; it is the only means
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Offline Muddyboots

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Chronograph
« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2004, 02:20:59 PM »
Zachary,
I've been using a Prochronogrpah for 12 years and it serves well. All the other comments are on target. I've killed mine once with a black powder sabot. Prochronograh replaced the LCD with minimal charge and did it quickly so the customer service was good. This is not a Chrony but soounds similar. Comes with decent sunscreeens and you can get printer and extension for it. I agree that the 35P is way to go but I've got this one and works OK for my use. I also use spreadsheets and RCBS software (free otherwise I wouldn't have bought it) for various load data calcualtions. I also use an Access database to record loading data which is OK. The 35P and don't look back.
Muddyboots
"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety." Ben Franklin

Offline BruceP

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2004, 07:33:47 AM »
Zachary, I would agree with your decision on getting the Oehler 35. I have its predecessor the model 33. The 33 does not have all the features of the 35 but I bought mine used between ten and fifteen years ago. and it still works great. As some of you read here at GBO I did upgrade from the skyscreen II's to the newer skyscreen III's due to my Contender not placing one shot where I was looking. :wink: Anyway it was a useful upgrade because I now have a larger shooting area and it is faster to set up than before.
BruceP
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Offline Coyote Hunter

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Which Chronograph should I get?
« Reply #11 on: March 16, 2004, 10:58:22 AM »
Quote from: Dave in WV
I look at the different brands and think the most expensive part of a chrony is the "box" with the brain. I ask myself, "do I really want the expensive part where a bullet can hit it?" Chrony brand may be good but I wouldn't take the risk. Dave


The solution is to get the remote readout, which houses the "brains" as well.  Only thing left down range is the screens.  

And hey, you can get a refurb Chrony for $49.95.  Its an all-in-one unit at that price, but hey, the price is right - you could shoot a couple (or more!) and still be money ahead of the fancy units.

I've had my Master F-1 for about 4-5 years and it hasn't taken a hit yet.  But when/if it does, I'm not out much!
Coyote Hunter
NRA, GOA, DAD - and I VOTE!