.400 Holland and Holland Project

[lgm270]

The .400 HOlland and Holland is a .375 H&H necked up to take .411" bullets, but retaining the sloping shoulder of the .375HH. 

The problem is that .411" bullets are slim and none, except for such ard to find offerings  as  Hawk, Woodleigh and some odds and ends from Hornady and BArnes which are 300 grainers for the .405 Winchester.


Hmmmm.... I want to re-bore an existing m-70 375HH to ..400 HH and I have talked to people for whom this conversion was a flawless success.  Feeding is perfect since the .375 & .400 HH are basically the same case.


I have given thought to the idea of swaging down .416" to .411 inch for use in the .400 HH.

Alternatively, I thought of using a .416" barrel and just loading .416" bullets in this gun, since all of the load will be hand loads since there is no factory ammo available, although properly headstamped brass is available on Midway.

This is kind of like modern shooters using .358" barrels for  9x57mm mausers in intermediate length mauser mil-surp actions. 

Would appreciate comments from knowledgeable posters. 

Which is better....swaging down .416" to .411" or just using a 416" bore? ,

[Nobade]

Better take a look at those two cases again. The 400 has considerably longer neck than a 375 does, about 4 times as long. It's not just a necked up 375. The big deal with the 400 is it can shoot 41 magnum pistol bullets for light game and playing around, plus rifle bullets for big game. Great, useful cartridge that you will pay through the nose for reloading dies and properly headstamped cases if you need them. If you want to go 416, I'd suggest 416 Rem mag. Cheap dies, cheap brass, lots of available bullets, works great as a rebore and rechamber from a 375. I have had Clearwater Reboring do several CZ 375 rifles to 416 for me so I could rechamber them to 416 Rem. No other changes to the rifle and it works well. That's for guys who just had to have a 416 but didn't want to go with the Rigby due to whatever their own reasons.

[Brithunter]

Have you considered perhaps the 404 Jeffries or the 416 Rigby or even the 450 Rigby?

[Drilling Man]

I have given thought to the idea of swaging down .416" to .411 inch for use in the .400 HH.

Would appreciate comments from knowledgeable posters. 

Which is better....swaging down .416" to .411" or just using a 416" bore? ,

  Don't yell at me for doing this BUT, when you are talking about bullets, you "swage" a bullet UP and "draw" it down.  SO, you need a "draw" die to go down from .416" to .411".
 
  BTW, I have a wildcat that's an .408x74R.  Basically, it's a 9.3x74R with the less body taper and necked up to take .408" bullets.
 
  DM

[quickdtoo]

I've sized .416" Speer 350gr to .412" which work fine in my 405 Win H&R, just pushed em thru a Lee .410" bullet sizing die using the Lee lube that comes with the die kit, due to jacket spring-back, they end up .412", they shoot fine, but I haven't shot an animal with em to see how the terminal performance is. Have done the same thing with Hornady .375" 225gr sized to .366" in a honed Lee .358" Lee sizer, they end up being .367", haven't shot them yet in the 9.3x62 for accuracy tho. Got the idea from the link below on sizing .366(9.3) bullets to .358.

Tim 

bottom of page http://35cal.com/bullets.html

[Drilling Man]

  Before there were many .366" bullets available here, i sized a PILE of .375's to .366"...  Some come out very good, others not so much.  The shorter the bullet, the better they come out.  The longest ones will start to become bananna shaped.
 
  In all of them, the core will slip in the jacket some, and sometimes it affects accuracy, sometimes not, but it WILL affect their performance on game and the faster you push them, the easier the jacket and core will separate.
 
  DM