Rifle Recoil Pad Installation Tools

[277284]

Which sander is better for this job, Disk sander or Belt sander?  And is a installation jig absolutely necessary?

[Cornbelt]

You'll want a verticle disc, and yes, the jig for the pad installation is really great, but you could make your own cheap enough. What it does is to allow you to get the heel shaped to match the top angle, then reset and match the toe angle. Also works good for lengthening a stock with an extra piece of wood between the butt and the pad.
  After seeing a pad done with and without the jig, you'd notice the difference.

[gunnut69]

Most shops prefer a disk sander but I've used a 6x48 belt sander for many years.. One must take care to not get the workpiece too hot but that's not hard. I've used 2 types of pad tooling- the 2 part tool that the pad is bolted to. It sets the angles relative to the bottom half which is used on a flat 90 degree surface.. The second type uses a verticle rod and a second rod that hangs from a loop in the top of the first. At the bottom of the second rod is a plate carrying the pad. The other end is attached to a rod which connects it via an adjustable clamp back to the second verticle rod. The pad angle is set by theadjustable rod clamps..  The first works ok but the second is quite a pain to set up though it does work. I usually attach the pad to the stock, bending the baseplate if a curved application is desired. When the pad fits acceptably a scribe mark is made around the circumference of the butt stock. I use a round scribe and take care to avoid damaging the finish of the butt. Masking tape can be used to add protection. Then prior to removing the pad the belt sander is used to grind the pad free handed to match the angle on the toe of the stock. Get close to the line but not too close. Remove the pad from the stock and grind to shape. Since the toe angle is already there just keep it the same. Swing the pad around blending the toe angle to a horizontal one on the heel and sides. A coarse belt of OK for roughing in but a smoother belt needs to be used to grind the pad into the line. That's right, rmove the line but just barely.. To aid in seeing the line a bit of childs crayon (I use white or yelloow) is used to fill the scratch.. Finish with a block sanding with the length of the pad..and a rub down with a bit of WD40 which will smooth and help protect the pad, especially the super soft pads so popular such as sorbothane..

[oneoldsap]

                        You can fit a pad without a Jig , but it's real hard to make it look good . Put one layer of masking tape around the butt overlapping the butt just a tad . Then take a razor blade and trim to the wood . Attach your new pad . Make a line around the junction of the pad and the tape with a  SILVER SHARPIE . Remove pad from stock ! Grind on a disc sander with 100-120 grit paper . Just barely remove the silver and you're done . Match the Heel and Toe angle .  Two things that bother me alot are wrong angles on a recoil pad and Swivel Studs too close to the end of the stock , Studs should be 3" from the end , 4" if the pad is over a half inch thick . It's not any harder to do it right , and the results are the difference between looking hacked or looking Professional , Your firearms say things about you as a gun owner and as a Craftsman !

[quickdtoo]

Freeze the pad before for final finishing with WD40, you'll get a much nicer finish. 

Tim

http://www.limbsaver.com/2010/pdfs/grind_instructions.pdf

[mattl]

Freeze the pad before for final finishing with WD40, you'll get a much nicer finish. 

Tim

http://www.limbsaver.com/2010/pdfs/grind_instructions.pdf

I've always used lemon juice for final finish with so so results, I'll have to try the WD-40 next time.

Matt

[gunnut69]

Actually freezing the pad if its a super soft one such as the Pachmeyer 'sorbothane' pads is a great idea.  The disk sander works great but I believe the belt produces less heat build up and that makes for a better finish but to each his own.. Also if a lot of material has to be removed a course belt removes it wuickly followed by a fine grit the following day to provide final finish. Allow the pad to freeze overnite to get best results... Also it can be helpful to use a bit of 320-400 grit paper on a block applied vertically to the pad to equallize. I'll have to try the silver sharpie but a scribe groove and wax crayon works well..