Remington Managed Recoil loads

[Minnow]

They do not function in dads R7400 30-06. There is a warning on the front of the box saying they may not work in automatics. The rounds cause two different types of malfunctions at different times, but one of the two malfunctions happens every time. The rifle either short strokes and doesn't strip off a fresh round or a fresh round will be picked up, but the carrier will not have enough momentum riding home and cause the fresh round to hang up. Recoil is as advertised. Is there a way to get these rounds to function and if so will it require alteration to the action spring /etc?

[PawPaw]

Loads for semi-autos require a certain amount of pressure for the rifle to function.  Physics being what it it, if the recoil is "managed", something else is managed too.  Like pressure.

[Minnow]

Loads for semi-autos require a certain amount of pressure for the rifle to function.  Physics being what it it, if the recoil is "managed", something else is managed too.  Like pressure.

Yeppers. Just looking to see if anybody had clipped off a action spring coil or two to get them to function properly. I had thought of picking up an extra action spring to use with these loads only, at Brownell's for 6.00. It's ok though, dad gave the loads to a guy with a bolt gun today while we were at the range. He'll be using regular Remington 150gr core locks from now on.

[Bigfoot]

Under the forearm is a gas check screw. Backing it off should allow more pressure into the gas system. Just make sure to reset it before shooting full power loads. It's painted so changing the setting probably voids the warrrenty. Maybe find some matching color paint in case the rifle needs to go back to Browning.

I'd just find a reloader to tailor some light loads to your rifle. The pressure as the bullet passes the gas valve is critical so choose a powder with a medium burn rate.

[Dave in WV]

Before you get to cutting the recoil spring remember your rifle is gas operated. You're not getting enough pressure to operate the action. Cutting the spring may cause feed problems by noy having enough strength to strip a round and close the bolt fully. I'd order another spring before cutting the one in your rifle just to be on the safe side if it doesn't work for you.

[Bigfoot]

Under the forearm is a gas check screw. Backing it off should allow more pressure into the gas system. Just make sure to reset it before shooting full power loads. It's painted so changing the setting probably voids the warrrenty. Maybe find some matching color paint in case the rifle needs to go back to Browning.

I'd just find a reloader to tailor some light loads to your rifle. The pressure as the bullet passes the gas valve is critical so choose a powder with a medium burn rate.

Sorry, thought I was in the Browning forum. I don't know if the 7400 has an adjustment screw on the gas block like the BAR does.

Under no circumstances would I cut down the recoil spring.

Seriously, light loads can be worked up to function the action just pay attention to the powder choice and bullet construction. To reduce recoil you want either a lighter bullet with a tough enough construction to penetrate or a medium weight soft bullet. Push them at the minimum velocity that gives good mushrooming at the ranges that you hunt. I use the 125 Nosler Ballistic tip at around 2700 fps and the 150 Hornady SST at around 2600, both loads are soft shooting and plenty fast for the bullet construction even at fairly long range. I could push them slower but at the expense of a decent trajectory.

[BBF]

If you reload, try Hodgdon's reduced load info with H-4895, you will find something from their minimum to full loads that will cycle the action. I've got a 742 that cycles with very mild loads.

[Minnow]

Gave the ammo away. Now running standard 150gr corelocks. They run fine. Got a slip on recoil pad instead and will have a permanent one mounted after deer season.