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Author Topic: which manuals to start with?  (Read 731 times)

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Offline 340wby

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which manuals to start with?
« on: November 27, 2003, 06:41:39 PM »
I have about 30 reloading manuals, (barnes,speer,nosler,hodgon, ETC.)but Ive found that most times I use two far more than the others
most of the more well known manuals will cover the comon data but IF I was going to pick only one the HORNADY MANUAL WOULD BE IT (but I can,t imagine not cross checking the info in any one manual, so ID STRONGLY SUGGEST GETTING BOTH)

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/111919

  I WILL STRONGLY SUGGEST YOU ALSO BUY "PET LOADS"

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/807509

THERES A NEED FOR QUALITY MANUALS,THESE TWO ARE SOME OF THE BETTER ONES, YES THEY MAY LOOK MORE EXPENSIVE THAN SOME OF THE OTHER CHOICES BUT BETWEEN THE TWO THEY COVER MOST RELOADING INFO TOTALLY AND PRECISELY,SOMETHING YOU REALLY NEED TO GET THE MOST PERFORMANCE OUT OF YOUR GUNS SAFELY
if you want the next most comonly used Id say the
LYMAN and the accurate

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/823498

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/502610
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Offline Jack Crevalle

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2003, 01:30:36 AM »
If someone is starting out, I'd say that they need manuals that have the best tutorial section. This might or might not be the one an experienced reloader, loading for several different calibers would reach for.

Also, it depends on the cartridge. I started reloading to reload the Schmidt Rubin 7.5X55. As far as I know, the Sierra manual is the only commercial one that has loading data for this caliber.
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Offline richp41

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2003, 04:55:34 AM »
After 48 years of reloading, my favorites are the NRA Handloaders books and the Lyman series. Hornady ranks a close second and from there we go all the way down to Lee's manual with everything else in between. All will give you a little something but the NRA, Lyman and Hornady are the most comprehensive. Rich P
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Offline Graybeard

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2003, 06:21:26 AM »
If I were gonna have ONLY one manual (heaven forbid) then it would have to be the Lyman Manual because it has data for rifle and handgun and cast bullets and uses bullets and powder from all the various manufacturers. Plus the data section in the front is to my way of thinking the best of them.

BUT I would NEVER EVER consider reloading with only one manual. The minimum I would consider is the Lyman, one from your bullet maker and powder maker. Even if you only get the free one from the powder companies have one from them. Since these days many of the premium bullets take somewhat different data than the old standbys you really should have the manual from your bullet maker to compare loads in other manuals to.

GB
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Bill aka the Graybeard
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I am not a lawyer and do not give legal advice.

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Offline BCB

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2003, 08:55:04 AM »
The latest Lee Manual is a compilation of many of the powder manufactures data.  So for a quick reference, it lists much data.  I have it, but I also have nearly 40 other manuals from various manufactures and from many years ago to present.  Can’t have too many.  PLUS, don’t forget the data that is available on the Internet…BCB
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Offline longwinters

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2003, 10:54:07 AM »
I have the Nosler and Speer.  I prefer the Nosler.  I have just borrowed my buddy's Lyman 47 guide.  It really is very good.  For a "general 1st reloading book" it would be my 1st choice.  But I can see that the next one I will get will be the Sierra (because I am interested in several of their bullets).  As far as the powder guides I think they are the least helpful as they are very sparce on covering very many bullets.  Some of which I would think (in my limited experience) are very common.

long
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Offline ButlerFord45

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2003, 12:35:17 PM »
First manual=Lyman!!  Lyman explains it so that even slow people like me can get it!  Wide variety of bullets and powders, Rifle, pistol, Black powder, cast bullets.  Lots of information, actually good reading to boot.
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Offline Kragman71

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2003, 05:34:46 PM »
Because I shoot a lot of cast bullets,I consider the Lyman manual to be the best overall.
Because I have a chronograph,I bought a Speer manual,when I wanted a new,'lawyer friendly' one. The Speer posted load data most closely conforms to my personal data. I now have 3 of them. You may find a different manual is closer to your data.
Frank
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Frank

Offline boneguru

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cant have too many
« Reply #8 on: November 29, 2003, 07:19:22 AM »
the best part is finding older ones that have obsolete, or out of production loads as well as the older books have more powerful loads. Raymond
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Offline Graybeard

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2003, 07:27:13 AM »
Boneguru said:

Quote
the best part is finding older ones that have obsolete, or out of production loads as well as the older books have more powerful loads. Raymond


Wal now I dunno so much about that. There is a GOOD reason why modern books have reduced the loads from those in the older manuals and it ain't cuz of lawyers.

Back in the old days there was little or no pressure testing done. The folks who wrote the manuals used the old tried but NOT TRUE methods that manuals have been telling you to use for years. Things like if primer pockets loosen after a few shots the load is too hot. TRUE but hot much too hot? Like a sticky case means the load is too hot. Well yeah usually but not always and even so HOW MUCH too hot? Like flattened primers means the load is too hot. Not necessarily but even if so HOW MUCH too hot? Measuring case head expansion. Totally unreliable.

These days they all use pressure measuring equipment and keep loads within the SAAMI specs using the lots of components and brands of components they have in their barrels. That doesn't ALWAYS mean they max loads will be safe in YOUR barrel using your brand and lots of components. Usually but not necessarily always.

Going with those older hotter loads will have you over SAAMI pressure EVERY time.

Also many powders have been reformulated and even tho they carry the same name and number the ARE NOT the same powder and DO NOT have the same burning characteristics. Old load data in those cases is no better than using load data for some other totally different powder.

Use ANY old load data with great caution.

GB
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Bill aka the Graybeard
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I am not a lawyer and do not give legal advice.

Jesus is the way, the truth, and the life anyone who believes in Him will have everlasting life!

Offline boneguru

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quite true
« Reply #10 on: November 29, 2003, 07:34:47 AM »
sorry, didn't mean to mislead. the point was more to imply the extra info that can be obtained. although some of the books printed as soon as ten years apart show different loads for same components. but I do agree, for safety of all involved be cautious of any unproven loads for the sake of just going bang.
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Offline Kragman71

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which manuals to start with?
« Reply #11 on: November 29, 2003, 08:50:10 AM »
I think that I have to clarify my statement about the 'lawyer friendly' load listings.
Yes,the new,lower listings are defineately safer,and should be the groundwork for any load developement.
If,however,you receive suggested loads that exceed them,you should check the older manuals,for concurring data.
Then you can try some small increases in powder charges.Remember that you are on your own,and should not go beyond your experience.
I went through this recently with my 30 Carbine semi-auto.
I asked for(on Graybeard Outdoors),and received some good hunting loads from several readers. The one that I liked was over the limit in my new Speer,but was acceptable in my older one. Because of the small case,
I tried .2 tenths increment increases,with no problems,at all.
In this case,in my rifle,over max loads in the new manual can safely be exceeded.
Keep in mind that there are 'old' handloaders,and 'bold' handloaders; but no 'old bold' handloaders.
Frank
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