Should be getting my 357 Handi back in a few days, got some questions

[KenSel]

Ok I sent them a new MO last week so hopefully rifle will show up soon.  As soon as it gets here I'm gonna rent a reamer and cut it to Max.  I read in the stickys about needing a T-handle.  Could someone explain to this mechanically disabled dummy what kind of T-handle I need to get and where I can get it?  Also I can't find a case length gauge for the Max; Lee usually has everything I need but I couldn't find any at midsouth or midway.  Any ideas where I can find one.  I can't wait to get started and get me a good Indiana deer slayer!

thanks,
Ken

[quickdtoo]

Here's what I use.

I'd cut a 35 Rem length gauge down.

Tim



Here's a T-handle...

[KenSel]

thanks Tim!  where can I pick up something like that?  Would Home Depot or one of the local hardware stores have them?

thanks,
Ken

[quickdtoo]

Yup, they should have one or the other, maybe both, I think you can rent the handle from the reamer place too. 

Tim

[old coach]

Try looking at a good auto parts store, or at the tool dept. in Sears.
It is just a handle for a tap.

Coach

[KenSel]

thanks guys!  now just one more question....maybe two     where can I get the cutting oil and what kind should I get?

[jeepmann1948]

Try using a digital 6" caliper Works great and is not one case specific. They are priced very reasonable from places like Harbor Freight. You can also use the to check OAL , bullets case diameter stretch etc. A very useful tool for the Bench .

[LaOtto222]

I have Mibro cutting oil that I bought at a local Tractor Supply. I think you could use something like TapMagic for a cutting oil. You may even be able to use Kerosene as a cutting fluid, but not real sure on that. The main thing is not to cut it dry, I think even a light oil would work, like 3 in 1 house hold oil. A regular cutting oil is best. I bought a oil can special for this (the pump kind). I put the cutting oil in the can and squirt it on the cutter as I go. I save mine, by having the barrel in a small container when I cut a chamber. I add generous amounts of it and then collect the excess and filter it and use it again. A little lasts a long time that way. BTW the Max is plenty of knock down on a Deer, just do not stretch the range too far, use a properly designed bullet and most important, put the bullet in the kill zone, Good Luck and Good Shooting

[blind ear]

I wouldn't use kerosene or diesel to cut. Unless the surface is polished like an injector pump or bearing the kerosene might contribute to gaulding.

[dpe.ahoy]

I got my cutting oil from ACE Hardware.  I'm gonna keep an eye out for a proper handle, what we put together worked, but was almost embarrasing to look at.   DP

[LaOtto222]

I hope you haven't cut your chamber yet. As far as a chamber length gauge goes - I cut mine until the rim cutter just barely touched the preexisting rim cut in to the barrel - so one is not needed, I did not cut any of the rim away. I then checked it with a new case and every thing was good. I have a small vise I can set up so the barrel is vertical, when I cut the chamber. I makes it easier so you can keep the reamer as centered as possible when you cut it.

I use an old dial caliper that I have had for years - it predates the digital ones, but works fine for me. When measuring case length, you do not have to be real precise, just once you set up your cutter, it is precise from one cut to the next so all of the cases are exactly the same length. It really does not matter if they are all short or longer that the trim standard, as long as they are all the same. Straight walled cases do not grow as much as bottle necked cases, so you can get several reloadings before you need to trim. I do not use a crimp so precise case length is not as important. You will like your Max. I like 180 grain bullets, they are a nice balance between weight and velocity, but every one has their preferences.