Old Contender Hammers safe?

[leapin]

Hi,

I just got a 1970 vintage Contender. The hammer has a screw in the face that's rotated 180 degrees
to select rim fire or center fire. Is this safe? Is there a hammer replacement?

I would also like to know what needs to be checked before I fire the pistol. Appears to be in
very good shape and seldom shot. Has a 222 Rem barrel with Bushnell phantom 1.3 scope.
I downloaded the manual. I am not new to guns, any Ideas?

Leapin

[streak]

leapin,
Thompson Center use to have a program to where that you could send your receiver to them with the old style hammer and they can put the new style hammer in its place, I think this also includes the crossbolt safety!
Give them a call and check!

[leapin]

Thanks Streak

[Slowpoke Slim]

I have the exact same hammer on mine. I don't understand the question about whether or not it's safe? Are you worried about misfires, or are you under the impression that the design or operation of the hammer is less than safe?

I've never had a minute's trouble with mine. I bought it used in '81. It just takes a screwdriver to rotate the firing pin block to select rimfire or centerfire. I assume yours has the hammer block in the hammer? Are you having problems with the hammer on yours?

[leapin]

Hi Slowpoke,

I have the same hammer block as you describe. I was curious why TC changed the hammer. Was it a safety issue? Was there a recall on that style hammer?

Ruger recalled some of their early SA revolvers to install their transfer bar system. Was wondering if this was a similar redesign safety issue. That said, It seems like a good, simple set up. No need to change if there aren't any issues.
 
I see by your outfit that you are a cowboy, I also am a CAS shooter.

Thanks for the reply

Leapin

[Ladobe]

Welcome to the board and the world of TC's.

I'm kind of a newbie with Contenders as well.  Got my first one in 1968 and have owned over 40 Contender frames since.   

Nothing wrong with that vintage of hammer other than ease of use.    I had a bunch of frames with it in the early years and only replaced them all when the easy open frames came out.   Been too long now to remember why, but I suspect TC's changes in the selector were just that, to improve useability - not a safety issue.   So there is no reason to change yours if its in good repair unles you just want the upgrade.

TC did do the hammer upgrades to the last version for years, but recently someone posted here or elsewhere that they are no longer doing them.   I haven't talked to them since Tim retired, but if that's true, you can still get one done from Jim Henry in Barstow, CA if you really want it.

   

[leapin]

Thanks Ladobe, from what little I have learned so far, the older style Contender's have a trigger that's more easily adjustable than the
G2 models.

The G2 models have stronger actions correct? I do some Elk hunting and was wondering what the usable rifle calibers are for the older Conteders when configured for a rifle.

Leapin

[skb2706]

The first older vintage frame I had had that 'pre easy open style' hammer. After about 20,000 dryfires it finally cracked back at the spur. The spur is more skeletonized than the easy open style. I sent it back to TC and they told me back then they could only fix it if I had them do the easy open conversion which included new trigger group, hammer and springs. Also required all my barrels have split bolts. Cost back then was $45. I believe the frame was mid seventies I bought new.

[Slowpoke Slim]

I think Larry has it. The hammer was changed for ease of conversion from rimfire to centerfire. If I remember right, back in the day, a few of the "expert" gun writers complained that the screw design forced them to carry an extra screw driver in the field. Or, if you swapped the barrel from rimfire to centerfire (or vice versa) at home and forgot to rotate the hammer screw, you were hosed in the field. My feeling is that if it 'aint broke, don't fix it. There are no safety issues with the old style hammer that caused a "redesign" that I'm aware of.

It would be different if you were having problems with it, or the hammer was broken, etc. As "dry firing" was mentioned, my opinion is that it's not really a good idea to dry fire one anyway. If you MUST dry fire one, you can by just opening and closing the frame, then just pull the trigger without cocking the hammer. That will give you the feel of the trigger release, if you're trying to "learn" your trigger.

[leapin]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the info, looks like I don' need to do anything except shoot my Contender.

Again thanks for answering my questions... you have probably answered them many times.

Leapin

[Keith L]

I have never seen anything from TC that indicates the G2 is stronger.  One of the aftermarket barrel makers feels so (I don't recall which one), but the G2 is no where as strong as an Encore.  It an handle 30-30 based rounds, and trapdoor level 45-70s, and the JDJs but no 308 0r 3006 based rifle loads.

[Ladobe]

Agree with Keith, the G2 is not stronger in the sense of what TC recommends can be shot on the frame.    You might hear someone call the G2 a revision as a safety issue, but that too is BS.   It just has a lawyers trigger that will never be as sweet as my Contender triggers are, nor any safer than them.

If you reload and wildcat there isn't anything you can do with an Encore that you can't also do well enough with the Contender.   Why I got rid of all my Encores years ago... just didn't need a different platform for any of the shooting I did.   For elk my favorite Contender was always my 375JDJ pistol's.   It's an easy wildcat as wildcats go, and now TC even offers it in factory pistol or rifle barrels so you don't have to go the cost of a custom barrel.   Less than $70 for dies from SSK and your all set for elk with the 375JDJ Contender (and ANY other big game for that matter).

BW, don't believe the BS about the recoil of a 375JDJ either.    It just is not that bad in a pistol and so should be cake in a rifle.