Me too....If you consider the pivot pin and lug as a half diameter or a half (semi) hemisphere and you make your 0.005" shim length half a diameter you will, in essence, have a 0.385" d pin at 0 ° and at 180° but only 0.380" d through almost the rest of the circumference and at 90°, which should move the barrel 0.005" toward the frame face assuming the stock is on the right and the barrel is sticking out on the left and you are looking down at the rifle.
Also by not getting the shim on the top and bottom of the hinge pin you don't need to relieve the lug by the shim thickness...although you really need to do some fancy measuring first...don't guess the lug recess is exactly the right diameter...it isn't.
When I do a shim job I consider the main intention is to have a tight lockup when the barrel is locked in firing position...it doesn't really matter if it is slightly loose when opened.
So I cut the "guessed" shim thickness, adding or subtracting as needed, to get the desired fit, then install and epoxy the shim from 45° to 135° or as close to that position as possible. I cut the shim length to 0.350", slightly over 1/4 the circumference length and slightly less than full width. That way the barrel locks up tighter and the shims have a lessor effect on the positioning of the barrel...neither lifting it or pushing it down by being "thick" on the top and bottom...after that I rough up the frame sides, lay in a layer of steel epoxy on both sides of the frame, slather release agent on the barrel, lock the action and let it setup.
After cleanup, as long as the shim adhesive holds the shim I'm place the barrel and lockup will remain tight and the accuracy improves a bunch. Ideally after setup the action will be a bit tight...grease the pin, the work it a few time and it will "wear" in and loosen up. It will stay that way for a period of time depending on how much you use it...use a stainless steel shim and it will last several years worth of "normal" shooting...not so long if you crank off a 1000 rounds a year.
Zoner...Another thing you can consider and a much easier solution to a "loose" fit is to adjust your sizer to not touch the shoulder at all on a fired case. The fired case has lengthened and move back the amount of the excess "headspace" and as long as you don't shove the shoulder back it will maintain this dimension. This will...in effect...use the case to take up the slack or you can buy a Redding Custom oversized shell holder to do the same thing...but to keep the barrel centered you need to do the "Accurizing" process on the frame. A better description of the process is posted in the FAQs...Fred's most excellent addition.
Luck with your projects.
