Author Topic: Complete Dahlgren Gun (Read 4059 times)

cannen1 · « **Reply #30 on:** July 21, 2008, 05:19:47 PM »

I tried painting just the barrel with BBQ black paint. Without a primer underneath you can easily scratch it off with your fingernail. Do they make a high heat black primer? I don't think things would get that hot but I suppose if you do a lot of shooting. I'm wondering if standard automotive black hot rod primer with BBQ black over it would work best. Any comments?

Ed

gulfcoastblackpowder · « **Reply #31 on:** July 21, 2008, 10:35:55 PM »

I haven't tried it, but I think high temp paint, like engine block/brakes paint may be a better option than body paint.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #32 on:** July 22, 2008, 10:42:41 AM »

Cannen1, instead of spending money experimenting with different types of paints till you find one that's acceptable, I'd think your best and most economical bet would be to get some spray paint that was manufactured specifically for coating firearms. These are probably the toughest and most durable (do at home) painted finishes for steel that you're going to find. Brownells makes Aluma-Hyde II and a bake on finish called Teflon/Moly, Lauer Custom Weaponry sells a couple spray finishes named DuraCoat and DuraBake. I've used the Aluma-Hyde II with good results, it's epoxy based, needs no primer, it cures in the air (no baking) and it's the least expensive.

dominick · « **Reply #33 on:** July 22, 2008, 11:42:28 AM »

Ed, Aerosol paints usually take about a week or so to cure. Try scratching it off then. I use "Colorplace" brand which sells at Walmart for 96 cents a can, not because it's the least expensive but because it cures to a very hard finish.
It is easy to find, and in flat black it is easy to touch-up should the need arise.

cannen1 · « **Reply #34 on:** July 22, 2008, 02:34:02 PM »

Thanks for all the suggestions for paint. I'm getting pretty close to having completed the Dahlgren. I'll post some pics soon. Dom made the barrel and some of the carriage parts. Thanks again Dom. This is a cool little project. I am going to look into the more durable gun paints later. I was even thinking of cold bluing but I think it might turn out splotchy. The great thing is.....paint stripper....and voila....new finish if and when you get tired of the old one. I love experimenting.

Cool stuff

Ed

Cannoneer · « **Reply #35 on:** July 22, 2008, 07:42:26 PM »

Quote

Any comments?

You're welcome, Ed. When you resume your experiments with the barrel's finish, if you decide that your going to include tests on Walmart's, Colorplace and Brownell's, Aluma-Hyde II spray paint: Would you please post your findings on the comparison? If in your opinion these products match up pretty much equally, I'm certainly not going to be too proud to opt for "the least expensive" of the two. In almost all circumstances, I will choose to part with 96 cents rather than part with 11 bucks, it's just the way I is. Thanks

leesecw · « **Reply #36 on:** July 23, 2008, 01:05:38 AM »

The grill paint I used doesnt scratch off at all. The instructions called for getting the tube hot before putting it on and it seems to work pretty well

Double D · « **Reply #37 on:** July 23, 2008, 07:03:33 AM »

This gun was built and painted on 1984. Since then it been carried in the back of the truck to numerous ranges and has fired several hundred and a bunch of blanks. It has moved from Grants Pass, OR to Redding, CA to El Paso, TX to Santa Teresa, NM to Houston, TX to Montreal, QC to Sunburst, MT to Cut Bank, MT to Stafford, VA to Herndon, VA to Baltimore, MD to Challis, ID where it is now. I about 6 weeks it should make another move back to Cut Bank.

As you can see the paint job is rough, but not that bad for all the miles on it. It's painted with standard Rustoleum Flat black. Not bad for 24 years of "banging" around.

The gun will be refurbished this winter and the carriage will finally get painted the proper color...with rustoleum black epoxy

Cannoneer · « **Reply #38 on:** July 23, 2008, 08:43:44 AM »

Quote

The gun will be refurbished this winter and the carriage will finally get painted the proper color...with rustoleum black epoxy

For all the sermons your prone to giving, it's about high time that you're finally going to do something about covering up all that hideous and unsightly wood grain with something solid and opaque.
I'm guessing it's the barrel thats going to get the black epoxy: So what color is the carriage going to be?

Double D · « **Reply #39 on:** July 23, 2008, 08:59:50 AM »

Quote from: Boom J on July 23, 2008, 08:43:44 AM

For all the sermons your prone to giving, it's about high time that you're finally going to do something about covering up all that hideous and unsightly wood grain with something solid and opaque.
I'm guessing it's the barrel thats going to get the black epoxy: So what color is the carriage going to be?

Yes Boom you are right the unfinished carriage will get a proper covering. It took 23 years of intensive research to discover what the proper color for this gun carriage should be. Now it will be correct...black.

cannen1 · « **Reply #40 on:** July 23, 2008, 04:09:51 PM »

Dahlgren pics. Painted BBQ black. T handle custom made and blued.

Cannen1

Cannoneer · « **Reply #41 on:** July 23, 2008, 04:29:03 PM »

The paint job on the barrel looks good, you also did a fine job on the carriage and leveling screw. Nice work!

intoodeep · « **Reply #42 on:** July 23, 2008, 04:44:20 PM »

Nice Job! It makes a nice center piece on the table too. I need to work on the wife for that one. It sure beats those pesky flowers.....

cannen1 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 23, 2008, 05:32:27 PM »

The cannon on the table didn't bother my wife too much. She is not too keen about the Harley sitting in the family room though....

C

cannen1 · « **Reply #44 on:** July 24, 2008, 02:40:58 AM »

Hey, intoodeep, did Dom make you a carriage for a Dahlgren awhile back? I saw a previous post. If so, where did you get that Dahlgren barrel? It looks smaller than golf ball size.

By the way guys thanks for the compliments but Dom did most of the work, I just finished it up.

I might cut down the length of the jackscrew, although keeping it long may be better for sighting the cannon. The horizontal piece in the "T" handle slides back and forth on a ball detent mounted in the vertical section. Probably more complex than it needs to be but I like it.

C

intoodeep · « **Reply #45 on:** July 24, 2008, 04:13:24 AM »

cannen1,

Yes, Dom did make the carriage for me. The tube is an early South Bend Replica (SBR). Bore size is 1". It was purchased a few years back from Fleabay. I just never liked the wooden carriage that came with it.

dominick · « **Reply #46 on:** July 24, 2008, 12:08:44 PM »

Very nice work Ed. The top photo is what I sent to you so others can see what you had to build. I finally out-sourced the Dahlgren plates to the water-jet machine and now I am stocking Complete plate sets. [bottom photos]

cannen1 · « **Reply #47 on:** July 24, 2008, 01:15:54 PM »

Dom, I still think you have a winner here. Something about the Dahlgren coke bottle shape and steel carriage makes it just stand out. Not that I don't like a nice wood carriage. I think you are going to sell a lot of these. You should advertise these in semi-kit form in Home Machinist magazine. Its a very cool project.

Ed

cannen1 · « **Reply #48 on:** July 24, 2008, 03:14:24 PM »

Another thing you can do for the T handle is possibly use a modified ratcheting tap handle. Then you can really crank 'er up or down....with the sound effects....heh heh. My wife thinks I'm nuts but I don't care!

C

cannen1 · « **Reply #49 on:** July 24, 2008, 03:48:23 PM »

Anyone know where I can get some golf ball sized zinc or lead balls that I could use for a display? I don't have the means to cast them myself.

Ed

intoodeep · « **Reply #50 on:** July 24, 2008, 04:28:40 PM »

cannen1,

If, you are just looking for a display. I would suggest painting some golf balls black then stack them using hot glue. I have posted a photo below. The only thing I would do different is to add a coat of black to the balls after gluing them, just so you don't see the glue.

If, you are looking to shoot lead balls down the road. Then I would suggest you give "Brad & Sons Tackle" a ring and let them know what you want. They have 16oz. lead balls that are 1.69" Tell them they are for a cannon and they will hook you up. You can google "Brad & Sons Tackle" for their info. They are located in Oklahoma City.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #51 on:** July 24, 2008, 04:32:09 PM »

Try Walmart for the one pound cannon ball fishing weights. They work great after you remove the brass loop. Wire cutters and file or dremel work fine. That's what I use.

cannen1 · « **Reply #52 on:** July 24, 2008, 04:49:33 PM »

Thanks, I like the golf ball idea for display. Do you think bondo would hold in the divets so I could get a smooth ball? I would probably lightly wire wheel the golf balls to rough them up then put a little bondo over the divets. Then I would drill a hole and screw in a lag bolt with the head cut off, throw that puppy in the lathe and work it with some sandpaper to get it smooth then piant, stack and glue. Sounds like a lot of work, maybe I'll look for those 1 pound fishing weights at Walmart.....

intoodeep · « **Reply #53 on:** July 24, 2008, 05:02:52 PM »

Quote from: jeeper1 on July 24, 2008, 04:32:09 PM

Try Walmart for the one pound cannon ball fishing weights. They work great after you remove the brass loop. Wire cutters and file or dremel work fine. That's what I use.

Dang!!! You guys have stuff like that at Wal-Mart? I remember one time seeing re-loading supplys at a Wal-Mart in Idaho. All we have here in the Ghetto... I mean city is basket balls and bikes. You guys get all the good stuff!!

cannen1 · « **Reply #54 on:** July 24, 2008, 05:28:51 PM »

Yeah, I don't recall seeing any 1 lb lead weights around by me. I would have to go out farther.

It is possible just to sand off the divets on a golf ball. Go figure.

GGaskill · « **Reply #55 on:** July 24, 2008, 09:04:50 PM »

Do you think bondo would hold in the divets so I could get a smooth ball?

That's an awful lot of holes to fill. It would sorely try my patience.

cannen1 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 25, 2008, 01:57:26 AM »

First I drilled a 3/16 pilot hole into the ball, screwered the golf ball with a 1/4" lag bolt without a head, threw it it the lathe and worked it with 200 grit sandpaper for about 10 minutes. No bondo, no filler at all. I would probably suggest a slightly coarser grit. Now I have a reasonably smooth ball that looks more like a cannonball. This will be for a display.

Ed

dominick · « **Reply #57 on:** July 25, 2008, 03:14:59 AM »

A 4-1/2" disc sander with a flap disc would bring your time under 1 minute. I would make a longer lag bolt to bring the ball away from the chuck though.