Oil finish

[Keith L]

Reaqding the thread about tung oil makes me think of the two fine old rifles that I have been meaning to refresh their oritinal oil finish.

I need to know what Linseed oil to use for the original finish:  boiled, unboiled, or something else.

Also, I remember the instructions were something like once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year forever.  These two have absorbed all their oil it seems, so where do I start on this process.

Thanks!

[victorcharlie]

I used boiled linseed oil, about 5 coats thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits, then tru-oil, both sprayed on with an air brush, both cut 50/50 with mineral spirits about 20 coats. 

Cutting it 50/50 thins the material and makes for easy spraying and thinner, quicker drying coats.

I'd wait 2 days between coats.

My job was a refinish, not a refresh and I sanded between coats.

I've tried thinning and rubbing it in as well as brushing, but an air brush gives a much better finish.

Boiled linseed oil is used as a paint binder or as a wood finish on its own. Heating the oil makes it polymerize or oxidise more readily, effectively shortening the drying time. Today most products labeled as "boiled linseed oil" are a combination of raw linseed oil, petroleum-based solvent and metallic dryers.

If your old finish is linseed oil, the tru-oil will go on fine over it.  Just wipe it down with mineral spirits to remove oil, grease, or other impuritiies.

[gunnut69]

I strongly advise the use of TruOil. Linseed oil without dryers will not completely harden and will get 'sticky' in warm damp conditions such as your hand in a 100 degree Missouri summer day. They will appear hard but will soften repeatedly..  Wipe the stock clean with mineral spirits to remove dirt, hand oils and the remaining wax coat.  Apply the TruOil just enough to allow your hand to slide over the stock, just a few drops. apply and spread until you've covered an area lightly, then move to another area.. A 1/4 teaspoon or so will likely do an entire stock. The idea is to apply the lightest coat possible.. Allow a day to dry and buff with a coarse cloth and re-apply if needed. If severely dry it may require several coats to vbring the finish back to life.  Afterward an annual application will keep the finish alive forever.. A bit of steel furr can be used to feather any damage and blend it away with a drop of oil and the heel of a hand.. The heat from the friction is beneficial to the finish. After the finish is nicely restored apply a protective coat of a wax containing carnuba..and buff to a luster.. During periods of use I reccommend a wax coat occasional to water proof and protect..

[Keith L]

Thanks for the replys.  I have used TruOil in the past, and could do it again.  I wanted to make sure that it would be the right thing to use.