Author Topic: Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes  (Read 865 times)

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Offline Cat Whisperer

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Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes
« on: September 06, 2005, 01:14:51 AM »
George posted a formula for black oxide finish with instructions.

Perhaps he would be so kind as to repost it here.  

Other recommendations for finishes are certainly welcome.

I do in-the-white primarily and have done bright chrome and industrial hard chrome (Armalloy).

I'm sure there are many more finishes, as the traditional rust brown.
Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
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Offline GGaskill

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Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes
« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2005, 01:32:12 PM »
The hot tank black oxide process:


5 lbs. sodium hydroxide (lye)
2.5 lbs. ammonium nitrate (can use ammonium nitrate fertilizer)
1 gal. water (distilled is best)

Heat to 285 deg F in a mild steel container (do not use stainless, it contaminates the solution and gives a bad finish) and immerse objects in hot solution for enough time to get the color you want. You likely will have to bring the solution temperature up but that happens automatically as the water is boiled out of solution.

Safety issues: this hot solution is VERY caustic and will eat skin if it gets on you and you don't wash it off immediately with cold water. Wear good eye protection as you won't have time to wash it out of your eyes if any gets there.



The following was added by DD:

Wear face shield, rubber gloves and rubber apron when you work with that stuff. Don't wear good clothing. Leather shoes will be eaten by splashes and dripping of this stuff.

Try to maintain the temperature at 285. You need a thermometer. Temperature may vary at higher altitudes. You may need to add water or let water boil off to control temperature. To add water slowly trickle it down a metal spoon into the solution. Don't pour straight in. You will get a steam explosion.

That solution will also eat concrete, sheetrock, and wood. The high temperature steam from the solution will permeate everything and needs vented. If not vented it will rot and rust everything.

You need to completely degrease the metal before putting it in the blueing solution, best done in a boiling degreaser solution. After blueing completely rinse all the solution. this is best done is a in a trickler or flush tank where water flow in one end of the tank and out the other.

One other thing to consider is take your finished gun down to you local gunsmith and ask him if he does his own blueing. If he does ask him what he will charge for dipping only, no polish or assembly. If all he has to do is dip and he is smart, he will be reasonable.

I use to take in blueing at the hourly rate for an aerospace company that brought stuff into my shop . All I had to do was load the stuff in the baskets and move them from tank to tank. Later I just sent the baskets back with the finished stuff and they brought them back loaded. Made some good money doing that and it helped keep the bills paid.
GG
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--Winston Churchill

Offline Cat Whisperer

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Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2005, 03:35:20 PM »
Thanks George (and DD) !

Let me add a finishing process for one to consider.

The Isaraelies Parkerize and then paint their Uzi's.  The parkerization (phospheric acid process) gives a deep black color and the sandblasting (cleaning) gives a texture that the paint sticks to.  FWIW.
Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
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Offline CU_Cannon

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Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes
« Reply #3 on: September 08, 2005, 05:16:45 AM »
I'm working on some home brew "rusting" solutions for rust bluing and browning.  I'll post some results once I have some.

Offline Powder keg

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Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2005, 01:55:19 PM »
Hi, I've been using Birchwood Casey's Perma Blue with good results. I clean the part twice with soap and water. Then I apply the stuff with a small sponge. let set for a few minutes then wash off. I then buff with some fine steel wool and repeat until the desired affect is achieved. Usually only 2 or 3 times. Then oil.
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Offline pyro_tek

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Homebrew rusting finish
« Reply #5 on: October 16, 2005, 02:00:35 PM »
CU (or anyone else for that mater), Any chance of getting your metal finish recipe? I'm trying to find finishes which will look interesting (I like the variations on different pieces be they 'natural', paint, blue, browning, etc.) I'm also looking for finishes which will be safe and which won't require high tech equipment and a degree in metallurgical processing to apply in the home shop. Of course keeping the cost within reason is always important. Please let me know what you've found that works for you. Thanks, p_t

Offline claypipe

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Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2005, 05:17:09 AM »
Most of the handgonnes I've seen in medieval artwork look to be unfinished. However, I do know that they would coat armor with a very thin coat of beewax and bake it, 350 degrees or so, to get a shiny black finish. Much like seasoning a skillet.


Offline CU_Cannon

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Finishes for cannons/mortars/handgonnes
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2005, 06:24:24 AM »
Here is the formula for the olive green paint I use.  I got it from the Saratoga military museum.  They said it was matched from original paint.  It seams a little dark but looks great in sunlight.  My only grievance is the drying time.  It dries to the touch in a few hours but will stay soft for a month or better.  
[row]The Home Depot Behr
Premium Plus Int/Ext High Gloss
Deep Base (8300) Quart
[row]Colorant[col] OZ [col]48[col]96
[row]B  Lamp Black[col]1[col]3[col]1
[row]KX White[col]0[col]9[col]0
[row]L Raw Umber[col]1[col]13[col]0
[row]T Medium Yell[col]0[col]21[col]1
[/table]
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