Author Topic: Fox Ridge Barrels (Read 723 times)

bushmaster · « **on:** May 29, 2004, 07:53:44 PM »

Howdy,
I read, somewhere, that the Fox Ridge Custom Shop had some quality control problems with their Contender barrels.
Has anyone had any experiences with these folks? Good?...Bad?
Thanks for your help,
Bushmaster

scratcherky · « **Reply #1 on:** May 30, 2004, 03:10:51 AM »

I recently purchased one from them for my Encore 257 Roberts and the barrel was sent with the wrong extractor installed. A round coud not be chambered in the barrel until they sent the right extractor. I have not fired the barrel yet but otherwise the barrel appears okay. Still I can not imagine a custom shop not at least chambering a dummy round prior to barrel shipment.

Bob C · « **Reply #2 on:** May 30, 2004, 05:20:36 AM »

I recently got a .338/06 barrel from them, and it is very satisfactory. Good finish, and so far the accuracy is good and shows early signs of very good potential.

MF · « **Reply #3 on:** May 31, 2004, 10:14:51 AM »

I recently got a new SS 26" .243 Win heavy barrel from Fox Ridge and after a short load development period it will put 80 grain Nosler b/t's in consistent .50" groups. Certainly not bench rest competition quality but it's gonna be deadly on yotes! Mike

Somerled · « **Reply #4 on:** June 17, 2004, 02:36:13 PM »

I received a .25-20 Win. barrel for a G2 Contender rifle from the custom shop last month. It shoots well, but the extractor had a lot of up and down play. It wouldn't engage the case rim most of the time. I wrote the custom shop and asked them for a new extractor. I got a new one in about a week which works perfectly.

I also had some problems with the barrel lugs at first. I stoned them little by little until they locked up and I could cock the hammer. I found some good instructions elsewhere on Graybeard on how to go about this.

This is my first G2 Contender frame and barrel. The interlock was installed backwards at the factory. I was stumped as to why I couldn't get the hammer to full cock. The instruction manual sure lacks a good schematic drawing of how the parts fit together. I finally found some pictures and instructions on Mike Bellm's site that helped me discover the problem.