blueing

[5.56er]

my bluing will not stick to the metal it will come off with gun oil, do I need to keep adding coats not all of it will come off just  little of it I am using perma blue, I am using cold water and everything. If you rub with your fingers on it it won't rub off just the gun oil.

[smoji]

Different guns accept cold blue in different ways so it's hard to say what's going on in this instance. Make sure the surface is completely degreased and previous bluing has been removed.
I have never had good luck with Perma Blue. I didn't find it particularly durable and I couldn't get a uniform application.
The one cold blue I have used which has given consistently good results is Oxpho Blue which is available from Brownell's. It applies evenly, without streaking and can be burnished with steel wool. There seems to be no wait time for it to cure and no requirement to neutralize it when the desired colour has been achieved.
Good luck & don't give up.

[gunnut69]

Amen to all smoji said.  You might try warming the metal a bit..  Some cold blues work better if used on warm metal, most notably the OxphoBlue product from Brownells..  Also the PermaBlue product may require a 'cure time' before the finish hards.  Perhaps wait a bit longer before oiling..

[Judson]

Cold blue is cold blue and none holds up as well as hot or rust blue.    If you want to do your own bluing, you can get a very good and long lasting job by using either Pilkington Classic American Rust Blue or Belgian Blue.    Both are available from Brownells the first is the best.     Catch is that they both require a tank big enough to submerge the barreled action in boiling water.    The Belgian Blue can be done in a day and works very well but nothing beats the American rust blue which takes a week or sometimes more but this bluing will out last hot bluing by a long shot and is a true rust blue that for looks and durability no other process can beat.

[cjcocn]

5.56er

First, what kind of metal are you blueing?

Second ....

I have had occasion to use cold blue (Birchwood Casey - Super Blue) and while cold blueing is certainly the least durable of the blueing options out there, it can give you a decent finish.

The trick for me is in the preparation.  When sanding with wet/dry sandpaper, I went up to 1,000 grit (400 - 600 grit may be enough), then degreased the metal three times.  Pay special attention to the part that tells you NOT to touch the metal with your hands after that - any oils (from your hands or otherwise) will cause the blueing to not take like it should.

I have not tried the Perma Blue yet (I still have it sitting with my supplies), so can offer no experiences with it, but in general would say pay close attention to the preparation phases.