Author Topic: Trigger Work on Handi- Can The Average Gunsmith Be Trusted??  (Read 501 times)

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Offline Singlepopper

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I have a .223 Handi and the trigger is marginal. The local gunsmith has a good rep but has never worked on a Handi. Is there any reason an otherwise  competent gunsmith can't be trusted to lighten (a little) and smooth out the trigger on a Handi?
Jim Allen

Offline cwlongshot

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Re: Trigger Work on Handi- Can The Average Gunsmith Be Trusted??
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2012, 10:44:58 AM »
No none at all...

BUT be sure to inform him NOT TO REMOVE METAL!  They defineately need to be handled differently. The parts are surface hardened and if "cut" will not hold and you will be left with the "ever changing trigger weight" problem.

ONLY polish and smooth contact points.

CW
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Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Trigger Work on Handi- Can The Average Gunsmith Be Trusted??
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2012, 10:46:34 AM »
What CW said, trying to remove too much metal to get a real light trigger isn't advisable.  ;)

Tim
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Offline rdlange

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Re: Trigger Work on Handi- Can The Average Gunsmith Be Trusted??
« Reply #3 on: May 02, 2012, 03:17:52 AM »
For the money, DIY.  You could buy many sets of new trigger parts for the cost of having a smith do it around where I live.  Probably buy a whole new rifle.  Just find a good one, and advise him like said here.
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Offline gcrank1

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Re: Trigger Work on Handi- Can The Average Gunsmith Be Trusted??
« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2012, 04:32:32 AM »
Anybody who can do a single action revolver trigger can do it, but try this first.
See the FAQs about trigger work and taking down/reinstalling the bits.
Sit in your favorite chair and watch a movie and cock and release (pad the hammer fall), just like shooting it. You can count if you want, but why bother, just do it until you cant stand it anymore. This burnishes the parts in without the cost of ammo.
Take it apart, if you have a very fine stone just run it a few strokes over the side edges, NOT the contact surfaces or tip of the trigger and hammer notch. Clean and dry well.
Oil the pin holes of both parts and put a smear of automotive type 'anti-seize' compound (ask your local mechanic for a half a thimble full) on the hammer notch,
Reassemble and try it; bet is is 100% better for free.
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