Epoxy Release ???

[stv]

I am getting ready to bed a receiver.  What is the best never fail release method???  Dont want to mess this up and end up with a permanent stock mount.   Don't want theories here real information.  Thanks in advance - stv

[savageT]

stv,
I can tell you that if you go out to an auto supply and pick up a can of good paste wax w/ carnuba wax and start slathering it all over the barrel, action, screw holes....anywhere you DON'T want the epoxy to stick it will do a great job for you.  By the way, don't bother rubbing the wax down, smear it on and let it haze over.......Don't forget to use it on the outside of the stock as well.

Finally, pick up a pound of kid's modeling clay (the stuff in wrapped quarter-pound sticks) and use that as a dam to block the epoxy flow as in just in the stock channel just in front of the action/barrel mount. What kind of epoxy will you be using? Brownell's brand is what most use......  called Acraglass I believe.

Jim

[gunnut69]

I use nothing but paste wax..  Any paste wax will do but I have been using a can of Johnson's furniture wax for years..  The carnuba is the working ingrediant.  I put on a nice even coat, no lumps..  and let it dry.  To get into tight areas I use a brush designed for apllying soldering flux.  A brush with short stiff bristles works best and is used to punch the wax onto the surfaces and into the corners.  I to use the kids clay.  Be certain to get the non-hardening oil based clay.  The water based stuff will harden if left in the open.  Also do the filling of recesses with the clay before waxing.  The recoil lug should also have tape applied to the front, sides, and bottom.  This allowsd the action to be a bit easier to remove after the glass sets(no suction).  I use a bit of masking tape(the good stuff) and just apply to the entire lug, using a razpr knife to cut the tape off the rear of the lug before waxing..  When the glass hardens remove the barreled action and take off the tape.  If it stays in the inletting, dig it out..  I cut the flashing(ooze out) from the metal wood gap as soon as the epoxy kicks over(rubbery consistancy) but before it totally hardens.  I use a tooth brush with a cutting edge(like a cold chisel) ground outo the handle..I also tape the stock the epoxy is death to any finish..Good luck!!

[Dago1]

I make fiberglass parts with various polyester and epoxy resin. Johnsons Paste wax is all you need. Apply and polish at least 2 coats. You want a smooth finish before you start.

[CzaRon]

If using paste wax avoid Butcher's Wax . It might remove bluing.  About 20 years ago I used it over spray release agent from Brownell's on my old BSA and on a small area without the spray the blue finish was immediately removed. The formula may have changed but why take that chance.

[wallynut]

PAM

No, not your girlfriend.  The spray that you or your wife would use on the cookware before preparing meals.