.22 K-Hornet

[dave29]

I currently have my hornet on ab SB-1 frame. I am seriously considering reaming it to a K-Hornet. Will the SB-1 frame be OK with the extra pressure, or should I switch it over to an SB-2?

One other thing, I have a bunch of new Nickel Hornet brass, will the nickel brass fire form fine to the K-Hornet shape?

[Dinny]

Dave,
  When one considers what other cartridges are loaded onto the SB1 frame, I would say you're fine. I researched the K-Hornet with our favorite gunsmith (the one who shares your first name ) before. He said there would be little to no difference in accuracy after it has been rechambered.

Thanks, Dinny

[quickdtoo]

The big firing pin on the SB1 shotgun frame is the problem, I got severely cratered primers using pistol primers which are commonly used in the Hornet even w/Lil'gun loads which are lower pressure compared to other Hornet powders, using SR primers would solve that issue, wouldn't be a problem on an SB1 rifle frame tho. 

Tim

[briannmilewis]

Get an RCBS X-Die set rather than go K. Going K is a little more performance with an improved case life. The X-Die should give the longest case life possible. But if you want to drive the Hornet hot, then case life is not a primary concern of yours. FWIW

[dave29]

Thanks for all of the replies.

So, the Nickel plated brass will stretch out OK?

[dave29]

Dave,
  When one considers what other cartridges are loaded onto the SB1 frame, I would say you're fine. I researched the K-Hornet with our favorite gunsmith (the one who shares your first name ) before. He said there would be little to no difference in accuracy after it has been rechambered.

Thanks, Dinny

Yep, I think I am going to ask him about reaming it.

[LaOtto222]

Here are a few pictures of my 22 K Hornet and some targets shot.







It is a stub done by Dinny's friend on an SB2 frame

It shoots great and the cases do last longer, but I like WW296 and CCI small pistol primers best for my light bullet loads and 20" heavy barrel.

Here are a few targets shot at 100+ yards









I am not sure about the nickel plating. I have heard them used on 30-30 AI and being OK. Personally I steer clear of them, just too many problems and a premium price.

I sure like showing my 22K Hornet off

Good Luck and Good Shooting

[Dinny]

LaOtto222,
  That's how to do it! It looks as well as it shoots.

Thanks, Dinny

[cwlongshot]

Nice shooting hornet you have there!!

As for the nickel brass, I have formed many calibers from others, generally speaking you have more wasted cases using nickle compared to reg brass cases. You will also do best reforming NEW brass rather then fire hardened brass.

CW

[Fred M]

Some time ago when I reloaded for the 280AI I experimented
with nickel plated brass.
1. I found that the nickel plated brass badly scratched the expensive custom  sizing die.

2. Getting cases stuck in the die was rather very frequent. Removing a stuck case from a die is no pick-nick.

3. Since my chamber had a tight .311" neck I had to outside neck turn all my brass. The nickel on the neck was murder on the
turner cutter. Which I had to resharpen often loosing the cutting set up.

4. The rough nickel plating on the inside of the necks was scraping off the Moly plating I was using on the bullets. I did try to burnish off the nickel plating with steel wool wrapped around a
cleaning brush spun with an electric drill, to no avail.

5. The nickel plating can peel off and get imbedded in the chamber during firing of a cartridge, a real jack pot.

The obvious solution was to stay away from nickel plated brass forever. It is of no use to a rifle handloader, period. I know you can get carbide dies for pistol cartriges which use nickel plated brass, at a cost.

[gendoc]

The obvious solution was to stay away from nickel plated brass forever. It is of no use to a rifle handloader, period.

ain't that tha truth !!!!! 

[dave29]

Some time ago when I reloaded for the 280AI I experimented
with nickel plated brass.
1. I found that the nickel plated brass badly scratched the expensive custom  sizing die.

2. Getting cases stuck in the die was rather very frequent. Removing a stuck case from a die is no pick-nick.

3. Since my chamber had a tight .311" neck I had to outside neck turn all my brass. The nickel on the neck was murder on the
turner cutter. Which I had to resharpen often loosing the cutting set up.

4. The rough nickel plating on the inside of the necks was scraping off the Moly plating I was using on the bullets. I did try to burnish off the nickel plating with steel wool wrapped around a
cleaning brush spun with an electric drill, to no avail.

5. The nickel plating can peel off and get imbedded in the chamber during firing of a cartridge, a real jack pot.

The obvious solution was to stay away from nickel plated brass forever. It is of no use to a rifle handloader, period. I know you can get carbide dies for pistol cartriges which use nickel plated brass, at a cost.

Appreciate the input! Kinda scared to use it now. 

I ended up with a bunch of the Nickel brass on a trade, I wouldn't buy any for reloading purposes.

[dpe.ahoy]

Nice lookin and shootin Hornet LaOtto222!  One of these days yer gonna nail that dime, I just know it.   I have some nickle plated 280 and 7mm-08 brass that hasn't given me any problems, yet, but have only reloaded it once.  Loaded up on some Win. ammo on closeout several years ago, $14.00 for the 7mm-08 Failsafe 140's and $12.00 for the 280 Ballistic Silvertip, I cleaned em out of both, that's how I got the nickle cases. 'Bout out of the 280, still have 9 boxes of the 7mm-08 and my BLR just loves em.  DP

[gcrank1]

After having a friend wreck (nasty internally scratched) his sizing die in 22 Hornet with nickel cases and trading into another slightly scratched die set with a bag of mixed nickel and brass in 45Colt. I will NEVER, EVER run any nickel cases into my die sets!!!