Author Topic: What's the worse that could happen? (Read 973 times)

longwinters · « **on:** January 17, 2004, 03:11:04 PM »

I have a Sako .308 that was made when they did not free-float the barrels. The forend has 2 "guide shelves" up towards the sling stud and the barrel also touches the tip of the forend. If I sand these out so that the barrel is free-floated . . . can I screw up my rifle? I did it on my Encore synthetic but the worse it could have cost me is $25-30 bucks. This is DIFFERENT. I really dont want to end messing up the rifle and then having to pay large for my ignorance. :roll:

long

BruceP · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2004, 03:57:01 PM »

Well I guess the worse thing would be to sand out way too much wood and leave a big gap between the stock and barrel that would look bad even if it shot great. Now if you take your time and don't make that mistake then I'd say the worse is that it could possibly group worse than it does now but then you would just have to use a bedding epoxy and make a new pressure point in the stock. I did this with my Winchester featherweight with a McMillian stock. That thin barrel just does not like to be floated. (At least mine doesn't)
BruceP

gunnut69 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2004, 09:14:46 PM »

First of all, what are we trying to do. Is the rifle inaccurate? Does it's zero wander? If you have a reason then worst case scenario you end up having to replace the pressure pad. It helps though to know what we are trying to fix..

longwinters · « **Reply #3 on:** January 18, 2004, 03:42:27 AM »

1st of all I should say that this is a lite weight rifle. 6 3/4. It seems to take 2 shots for it to settle in and then it will shoot 3-4 good tight shots !" or less. Then the next 3 shots of the same bullets will shoot 2" different. I realize that I have at least 4 variables here. !st would be me the shooter. Second would be that I took the action off of the stock to lighten the trigger which is a simple adjustment (just turning a screw). Third, I bought a demo scope (bushnell 4200) from SWFA and replaced my 3200 that was on it using the same rings. Finally I reload. The rifle does the same with any load/bullet combo. I am meticulous about my loads -each is the same up to measuring each powder load etc... I am a resonably good shot and can shoot 1" consistently. I did not change the rings, only took the top half off, when I changed scopes. So I am just looking at variables.

long

longwinters · « **Reply #4 on:** January 18, 2004, 07:57:34 AM »

This rifle would shoot 1" groups but was a little finacky concerning bullets/loads. As a result I did some changes . . . some for upgrades and others to try to get a little more accuracy out of it. I am thinking the zero wanders. I am trying to eliminate variables of which I figure there are at least 4. #1- I recently replaced my bushnell 3200 with a SWFA demo 4200, but the rings etc... are tight and I did not move anything except taking the tops of the rings off inorder to mount the new scope. I guess it could be the scope also. #2-I recently took the action out of the rifle and lightened the trigger, which is only turning a screw. But I notice now that the barrel touches the tip of the forend, which it did not previously do. However Sako says in the owners manual for the M591 that it should touch. #3-I do reload but am very particular ie measuring each powder load, brass lengths etc...I have had no problems concerning my reloading with my other rifles or my son's rifles. Plus I have tried several different powders/bullet combo's etc... each comes out with about the same charactoristics. #4- My shooting consistency. I am not a fantastic shot but do shoot 1"-1.25" very consistently so I do not think it is me. This rifle will shoot 3 bullets touching or under 1/2" and then with the next 3 rounds shoot a 2" group 2-3" away from the 1st group. It just keeps varying. I take my time between shots, plus it is only about 20 degrees out so the barrel never gets close to hot.

stocker · « **Reply #5 on:** January 18, 2004, 08:14:57 AM »

Longwinters:

My experience with Sakos is that most them will shoot quite well using the factory barrel pressure point. If you make some shims to place under the action behind the recoil lug and tang you will in effect lift the rifle in the stock and reduce or remove forend pressure. Shoot it like this and see if the groups improve. Shims about the thickness of a credit card are about right to try this.

Double check all the basics first- scope mount screws tight, action screws properly tightened, focus of scope, identical loads with quality bullets. Examine the barrel channel of the stock and look for indications of unequal pressures along the sides and at the pressure point. If you find any carefully scrape or sand away the high points. Don't let the edges of the barrel channel inletting get rounded out when you do this. The edges of the wood should look as sharp as possible with no rounding.

I see the most improvement coming from perfect action bedding (get it glass bedded). Once you know the action fits snug in the bedding and the rifle can't move around in the stock then experiment with the pressure point and free floating.

Finally recogize that a 6 3/4 pound rifle is a hunting rifle and don't expect it to shoot long strings in the same way you might expect from a varmint or bull barrel. How many are you going to shoot in a row at game anyhow?
You might be creating your own problem from shooting too many shots too fast causing barrel expansion from heat and increasing the forend pressure rapidly. Space your shots and don't overheat the barrel.

The fact that the first two shots are out of the group is another matter and could relate to bedding or whether you are in the habit of cleaning your bore after every shooting session. It is not uncommon for a barrel to require a couple of shots to foul the bore before it settles in. If this is what is occuring simple fire your fouling shots before you get serious about the group.

best

longwinters · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2004, 09:31:36 AM »

Sorry for the double post. The puter went off line and when I did not see it post I re-posted. Then of course the thing worked.

long

gunnut69 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 18, 2004, 11:35:01 AM »

Stocker has some valid points. A featherweight type rifle will have problems with groups shifting as the barrel heats. Try 10 minutes between shots. We are trying to see what groups would look like if all were from a cool barrel. Did the groups act the same before the scope swap? If not perhaps you drew a bad scope..

longwinters · « **Reply #8 on:** January 18, 2004, 02:37:52 PM »

Well, I am off work tomorrow so I will try to get out (although the temps will be below zero with the windchill). Tightening the front screw definitely changed something. The barrel no longer touches at the tip of the forend and the only place I cannot slide paper between the barrel and the forenc is where those guides are by the sling stud. I will let you know what the results are tomorrow nite. Thanks,

long

longwinters · « **Reply #9 on:** January 19, 2004, 10:43:50 AM »

:grin: Well, I am very relieved. I ck'd the forend screws out like Stocker and Gunnut suggested. Tightened up the front and actually loosened the back screw a smidge. 4 shots @ 100 yds - .75". These were with the same scope and my reloads, using Nosler Partitions. Temp was about +5 with a windchill of about -10. Thanks guys. Life looks a lot better now that things are back to normal with this Sako.

long