Help! Contender not firing.

[wallacem]

I bought a frame, and a 375 Win carbine bbl, put it together, and went to the range today with some reloads. It would snap, I looked at the primer, just a small dent in it, not enough to fire.  Tried again, snap, third time it fired. This happened on several rounds, then it decided to fire first time on about a half dozen rounds, then it started again. It seems to be closing okay, so I don't know what the problem is.  I have a contender I have used for 25 years, and this never happened with it.  Any ideas?  Wallacem

[David D.]

If not using a hammer extension my first thoughts would be head space.

[wallacem]

Since this cartridge headspaces on the rim, I wouldn't think it could be a problem.  There is no room for error there.  Wallacem

[Dezynco]

Is your frame a G2?  I love both my G2's, but I'm begining to believe that they have relatively weak hammer springs.  I handload my own cartridges, so I solved my problem with my blue G2 frame by using large pistol primers, or using Winchester large rifle primers, which are easy to detonate.

My stainless G2 frame has never had a problem cracking primers, so this got me thinking about a solution to the problem.  I took my blue G2 frame apart and gave the hammer spring a "stretch", then reassembled it.  That solved the problem for a while, but the problem returned when the spring relaxed back to it's original length.  My belief is that a frame that snaps often should be sent back to TC for a hammer spring, or taken to a good 'smith for a hammer spring repair.

Also one might shim the spring with some washers to make it compress more, thus causing it to strike the firing pin harder.

This is just some of my thought about G2's, but you didn't say whether your frame is an old style or a G2.  However, I'll bet the problem is the same in both style frames.

[David D.]

Since this cartridge headspaces on the rim, I wouldn't think it could be a problem.  There is no room for error there.  Wallacem

If the counterbore for the rim a tad deep, the frame to barrel gap a tad wide, head spaced off the rim can be a big problem, misfires!!! All my rimmed cases for my TC break actions are head spaced off the shoulder, not the rim. Yes a weak hammer spring may but not likely be the problem. Hammer extentions cause the same problem. But most times it will be a head space issue!!!!!

[P.A. Myers]

What happens with a different barrel?

[TRM-1]

I was having a problem with hangfires on my .50 cal muzzleloading barrel with my G2 and found the firing pin holder was loose. The screw that held it tight had backed out and was causing erratic primer strikes. I don't know if that is your problem but you might want to check it just to make sure. If I had to guess though it is probably the hammer spring.

[bobg]

I agee with TRM-1. That is what was wrong with mine also. I have had hammer extensions on all my frames and never had a problem with miss fires.
            bobg

[skarke]

It is common in G2s and Encores that previous owners have damaged the firing pin spring.  If TRM's suggestion doesn't work, then that'd be a good next step.

Another commonly overlooked issue it one of Barrel/Frame gap.  If this is too large, or so small that it prevents good lockup, or if your handloads are too long preventing same (bullet seated too long in a 375 Win), then you could have this issue.

An easy way to see it you have a gap at all is to close the action onto a piece of aluminum foil between the top of the barrel breech and the top of the frame.  It should slide out.  If it doesn't, you might have a problem.

Conversely, hold the rifle up sideways to a bright light.  If you have a really large gap, you can see that also.  Generally, about .007 or greater will begin to produce issues in some combos.

Good luck, great cartridge for East Texas woodlands.

[wallacem]

Hey guys, You are giving me some great info, stuff I did not know because, as I said, I have another frame that I have shot for 25 years with no problem.  It is a standard frame, not a G2. I am gonna do some checking this week and I will get back to you with my findings. Any other suggestions would be great too.  Thanks,  Wallacem in Ga

[skarke]

Check the pin (Old Style noted), and Barrel Frame Gap.

[wallacem]

I just thought about another point, I was using 30-30 brass. I wonder if the rim on 30-30 is the same thickness as 375 Win brass. It was given to me to use, and if it is a headspace problem, could be the culpret.  Wallacem

[Hopalong7]

      Remove the barrel from the frame and chamber a round.  It should be about flush or may protrude from the end of the barrel ever so slightly(1-3 thousandths).  Now unless you have an unusually large barrel to standing breech gap it should fire from a headspace point of view.  That leaves hammer, firing pin and internal safety.  You can check the safety by closing the action while making sure the chamber is empty and with the muzzle in a safe direction let the hammer down while holding the trigger completely to the rear. The hammer should be in tight contact with the rear of the standing breech.  If not, open, then close the action with a little more authority and re-check.  Lots of miss-fire in Contenders have been caused by "easing" the action shut.  Yes, I can tell you how hard it is to snap one shut when ol' big boy is standing right over there looking staight at ya.....and if you'd been there you know how loud that click is too!
   OK, all that mess out of the way and it still isn't firing...you probably need a hammer spring.  Call TC and they'll send you one and if you talk to the right one(and I'm sorry, but I don't remember his name) he'll probably send you a little washer to go with the new spring. Proper insertion of both and it should now go bang!

Good Luck, Walt 

[wallacem]

In looking at it tonite I am finding that sometimes it does not close right because the hammer will not fall all the way. It stops about .10 inch short of the frame.  What causes that? 

[Hopalong7]

     The internal safety is catching the hammer and not letting it all the way down...just like it's supposed to until it's activated properly by the barrel lock bolt when it locked into battery and then the trigger is pulled.  If you look
down into the action between the hammer and standing breech you can see the hammer block sticking up.  You can see it drop down out of the way as you work the action if it's working properly.  Usually the problem is caused by the locking bolt not fully engaging.  Try shutting the action with a little more authority.  You shouldn't have to slam it shut...but a sharp snap may help.  If not you may need to polish the engaging surface of the bolt with a little flitz or similiar.
Good Luck, Walt

[Madmark]

If the lockup is right, the locking lugs are locking, and the hammer spring is good, Check the hammer safety block for function.
Sometimes debris gets in the channel the safety block rides in, sometimes it's rough from the factory. If the block has marks on it from hammer contact, this may be the problem.  As a part of a reliability package, I always (1)smooth the edges of the safety block, (2)smooth any roughness in the channel the block rides in, (3) check the spring that pushes it out of the hammers path for fatigue or damage.
Also, they say to run Contenders dry, but my annual frame cleaning consists of flushing everything with brake cleaner, blow dry, douch with Eez-ox, blow dry again, and I rub a dab of "Moly-Slide" paste on the frame where the locking lugs ride. Works like a charm for me!