As always, Tim's advice is rock solid and spot-on!!

A month or so back I revamped my 32-20 Trotter special, with new wood, and a dedicated receiver. Well that receiver had an horrendous trigger. Easy fix, rite?
I took it apart and smoothed all contact points and checked the hammer and sear engagement. Was a bit much so a couple passes on a stone fixed that easily. Then a couple dozen more on a very hard stone to bring it to a brite smooth finish. Re-assemble and I was rewarded with a beautifully lite and crisp 3# trigger....that would NOT FIRE!!! Seems the way the fire control works is that the trigger MUST be pulled to the complete rear of the trigger guard to make it fire.
Here is a basic explanation of what happens: As you pull the hammer back, it "lifts" and holds the transfer bar almost all the way "up" in to fire position as the sear catches the notch on the hammer. Then as the trigger is pulled there is a "finger" attached to the trigger that finished the lift of the transfer bar and holds it up so the released hammer hits it, then that hits the firing pin, firing the gun. So its possible to have the trigger release the hammer, BEFORE the "finger" can get to the transfer bar. When this happens, the transfer bar drops before the hammer hits it and the hammer falls to the frame with out toughing the transfer bar or firing pin.
For my "fix" a new hammer, trigger and "finger" (I can't remember the actual name) from Brownells. One other thing about "stoning " handi parts. GO SLOW and DO NOT REMOVE MATERIAL. Simply POLISH the surface. The parts are only surface hardened, and cutting thru it will make for an ever changing trigger. I have had marginal success with heating the parts cherry and dunking in old stirred up motor oil.
Just a quick note, too much oil is a bad thing as well. Very little lube is needed on the internal parts. A good dry lube is best if you feel you need anything at all. Oil attracts dirt and dust, in turn turns sour and varnishes the parts, gumming up the works.
Post up what you find and maybe we can help save you the factory "repair" time.
Good luck,
CW