Here's what I found, from 2 different sources, While I don't endorse, it's here for informational puposes only.
#1. Torque settings- depending on who you listen to, use these as a rule-of-thumb guide. Accuracy is the boss here (as long as they are at least about 25 in/lbs or so min.)
"Kind of vague wouldn't you say?" The front one is most critical, tighten it
last. This will put uneven stress at the rear,
away from the locking lugs. Check it again
after firing.
1. Solid wood-25-30 in/lbs; Laminates-25-40 in/lbs; Fiberglass-30-40 in/lbs; Aluminum-50-60 in/lbs.
#2. Reciever screws should be tightened to about 25-30 in/lbs in a tupperware or non-bedded wooden stock; 45-50 in/lbs in a well bedded laminate or laid up synthetic. This is snug but not cranked. The tightening order on a bolt action is:
1. Barely snug the front reciever screw:
2. tighten the rear (tang) screw:
3. tighten the front screw.
In this way, if your reciever bedding is off, at least it will stress the reciever closer to the rear, not under the locking lugs.
It would seem to me that the sequence in tightening is of more importance as to, Maybe, tightening to much as I don't believe anyone who has taken an action out of the stock, has ever NOT tightened it enough.
Interesting thread...I read somewhere where a gun writer...I think Sundra...takes his rifles apart when he travels and transports them in a short, breakdown shotgun case. He then reassembles them when he arrives with a torque driver at 65 inch pounds and the guns shoot exactly where they were shooting before he left.
I took a Ruger 77 to Alaska and tried it. It did not happen for me, not saying it won't for someone else or a different rifle. When put back together and fired, it was close to a foot high and about 6" left. I guess it pays to recheck zero wherever you go. Also on the above tourque settings. These were taken from two different gunsmith's website, unfortunatley I never wrote down who it was, just copied it for my notebook for future reference. CRASH87