Question about an earlier Contender

[Incitatus]

This one is in the seriel range 190xxx.

Has a hammer without the lever and is evidentially non-easy open.

Question:  is it worth modifying it or am I better off going for a later version?

I'd like both the hammer lever and the easy-open mod.

Thoughts?  How much would be a reasonable price for such a frame in good condition.

Thanks

[Hopalong7]

    The serial number ranger you show is right on the break between frame changes.  Look at the hinge pin for the trigger assembly.  If the hinge pin is directly over the trigger it is an "easy open" frame or has been converted already.  If the hinge pin is forward of the trigger it is the old original style frame.  I'd give the TC customer service a call as far as the cost on the conversions.  They used to do the hammer conversion for free  and I think the easy open conversion is in the range of $65.00.  As your serial number suggests there are almost 200,000 of the old frames around so they're not too collectable unless you get down in the four digit range.  Prices vary quite a lot but I'd think $100-125 for the bare frame.  Walt 

[hunterspistol]

     I always thought that one of the earlier frames would make a good rifle, never had time to try it out though.

[sr sawyer]

Personally I prefer the old style hammer and have never owned an easy open frame.  I do polish all my actions and barrels and have never found the opening to be undersireable.  If I tried an easy open I might be enticed to have mine changed if it were free but would not pay to have them changed.  The hammer upgrade was free at one time if you sent the action to TC.

Currently a used bare frame like yours in good to excellent condition sells for $150-$225.

 

[Colonel Daddy]

I too prefer the old style hammer and the early triggers are the sweetest IMHO, tho we only have owned 2. I've not owned any of the later than 1973 Contenders but have shot a few. I would not send my frame back to TC because I like it the way it is for the early octagon bbls. Later bbls I would look for a later frame. JMO.

[Incitatus]

Can you explain why "octagons"?

Thanks.

[hunterspistol]

 I think it's a carryover from blackpowder styles, might have came out before the round bull barrel, there are tapered barrels too.  Most of the old lever action riflemakers started out with octagon for 45 Colt, etc. Sharpes, Marlin, Winchester, a lot of these old rifles are available with octagon barrels.
     Nothing wrong with traditional octagon barrels.

[Incitatus]

I like octagons too!

I meany why did the poster say that he prefered the oldr frames for octagons?

[hunterspistol]

   One another question thread, someone just made the statement that some pre-1972 frames will not accept the new stepped or tapered locking bolts on some barrels.  They only accept flat locking bolts on barrels that are that vintage, mostly octagon. One piece flat locking bolts have a tendency to lock down solid on newer frames, there's some slight difference. I've only ran into it on some Hot Shot barrels of dubious origin.

[Colonel Daddy]

I like octagons too!

I meany why did the poster say that he prefered the oldr frames for octagons?

Octagon bbls were the first produced by TC starting in '67. .22Rim Fire thru .44Mag/Hotshot and .45Colt/.410.
There are only a few of us old-timers around who were already activly shooting when the TC first came out.
It's strictly a personal preferance, but I like the early trigger and hammer.
IF all bbls fit all frames, there would be no need to send the frame back to TC to have it converted......no?
Keeping the early frame original is more important to me than having it converted and the extra hole drilled in the side.
Now that, after all these years, I've decided to expand my Contender use/knowledge, seems a later frame is the way to go instead of putting mods on a vintage frame that I don't want put on it. So the hunt is on for a later frame. Possibly one of the original hammer/trigger guns that will take the later bbls. If not, then one with the cross pin safety or the selector on top of the hammer.

[Incitatus]

It sounds as though the earlier receivers might or might not give you a problem with newer barrels.  And that if there is a problem, the fix is to get the upgrade done by T/C. 

Is that it, sorta?

[Colonel Daddy]

It sounds as though the earlier receivers might or might not give you a problem with newer barrels.  And that if there is a problem, the fix is to get the upgrade done by T/C. 

Is that it, sorta?

Yep, sorta! Might or might not! If one has a very early frame, it is best to try the bbl before buying, or make sure that parts can be found to install on the bbl to make it work on the old frame!
Some have claimed that all barrels will fit all frames. If that were true, then TC would not offer to up-grade the frame to fit all barrels. If it were a fault of the frame would they then charge for the up-grade?
Truth is, for me, the earlier triggers are much nicer than the new triggers. I don't need the "easy open" conversion because the old ones are not hard for me to open with the early bbls........and I do have slight arthritis in both hands. The rimfire/center fire selector on top of the hammer 'bothers' me, but I could get used to it. Not familiar enough with it to know if there has been a problem, ie, breakage.

Now, perhaps a better late than never introduction.
Old Model Single Action Rugers have been my firearm of choice for a long, long time tho I have and use others.
I am active on rugerforum.com and it was there that Graybeard and others gave me lots of good and sometimes not so good information. Graybeard was always 'right on'!
I'll be checking in here from time to time.

[Keith L]

You don't need the easy open conversion to get early frames to work with newer barrels.  You may have to polish the locking bolts, or replace the early bolt with newer ones.  No change to trigger, no extra holes.  My early Contender has been back to be repaired but has not had the easy open conversion.

[Colonel Daddy]

Right you are, Keith.
I've polished the blueing off the locking bolts on my 7-30 waters barrel. It will now open 75% of the time and sometimes even then a sharp rap on the lever with the heel of my palm is necessary to open it. Just how far can the polishing go? .....until it opens normally every time? Would the barrel then be OK to use on a later model frame?
Perhaps before buying another frame, I should contact TC and see if they still have the early parts to put on my barrel.
My barrel has the split locking bolt, but was there more than one type split locking bolt?
On the first issue barrels, the locking bolt was held in place with a hexhead screw from under the barrel lug. The 7-30 Waters barrel I now have, the locking bolt appears to be held in place with a pin thru the side of the barrel lug.