25-06 Ultra Problems!!!

[bootarcher]

OK I have a 25-06 that used to shoot pretty good but lately when I have been shooting some mild loads I have worked up for them the barrel is popping open after the shot. I have cleaned it were it latches and made sure no oil is in there and I have always made sure it closes tightly. I have about 300 rounds through this barrel but Iam kind of scared to shoot it now. Will Remington fix this for me? r can anyone give me some ideas because I have read all the FAQs and it has not helped. Thanks Hugh

[quickdtoo]

Are you shooting handloads that have been properly trimmed and resized? Pop Open Medicine in the FAQs covers all but parts failure and reloading problems related to your issues, a broken latch would require H&R to replace it, but I'd make sure you have all other bases covered before going there. 

Tim

[bootarcher]

I full length resize all my brass and check length on my lee trimmer. When I dont have a round in I can close the action and cock the hammer back and push the release lever and tap on the front of the barrel and it will pop open. On my 243 and 7mm-08 that are on different recievers they do not do this. I think I will send it in, unless there is something anyone else can recomend. Thanks, Hugh

[quickdtoo]

I'd say you're not resizing enough and you likely have negative headspace. Size a round as you do normally, chamber that brass and place a straight edge across the chamber, the headstamp should be flush with the chamber mouth, if it's too high it won't allow the action to fully lock up. You should also see a slight gap between the standing breech and the barrel that's not there with an empty chamber if you hold the rifle up to a light an look across the barrel to breech joint. You'll have to turn the sizing die into the press a little to push the shoulder back a little to get the brass to fit the chamber and allow the action to close.

Tim

[Fred M]

Yes  you need to set the shoulder back until the cartridge base is flush with the chamber. But once the the shell holder is hard against the die body NOTHING IS ACHIEVED BY SCREWING THE DIE DOWN further.

You have two choices either remove some metal from the top of the shell holder, which of course will make
the shell holder a deticated one. The other option is to place a
suitable strip of shim stock under the case head in the shell holder groove. The shoulder is moved down by the thickness of the shim stock.

That is the way I do it, that way the shell holder stays 0.125" for other application. Shim stock is available in sizes from 0.001" to ----?" Usually 2 to three thou will do the job nicely.

Stoning the latch shelve will give the latch more engagement.
This is done by placing a little lip stick on the shelve to where you need to remove some metal. Slow and easy is the way to go.
A needle file wrapped with #600 wet+dry sand paper works best.

A FL die is designed to make full contact with the shell holder to
achieve proper shoulder to base measurement. Alas some dies are not doing that or the chambers are out of spec. Redding makes a set of competition shell holders of of 10 pieces. Each changes the length by 0.001" to 0.010"

[cwlongshot]

Yes  you need to set the shoulder back until the cartridge base is flush with the chamber. But once the the shell holder is hard against the die body NOTHING IS ACHIEVED BY SCREWING THE DIE DOWN further.

You have two choices either remove some metal from the top of the shell holder, which of course will make
the shell holder a dedicated one. The other option is to place a
suitable strip of shim stock under the case head in the shell holder groove. The shoulder is moved down by the thickness of the shim stock.

That is the way I do it, that way the shell holder stays 0.125" for other application. Shim stock is available in sizes from 0.001" to ----?" Usually 2 to three thou will do the job nicely.

Stoning the latch shelve will give the latch more engagement.
This is done by placing a little lip stick on the shelve to where you need to remove some metal. Slow and easy is the way to go.
A needle file wrapped with #600 wet+dry sand paper works best.

A FL die is designed to make full contact with the shell holder to
achieve proper shoulder to base measurement. Alas some dies are not doing that or the chambers are out of spec. Redding makes a set of competition shell holders of of 10 pieces. Each changes the length by 0.001" to 0.010"

I agree with Fred. Although I have never thought of the shim stock trick!!  GOOD SHOW FRED!!!  (I just ground and made a dedicated a shell holder.)

I would start with the latch. Be doubly sure that it is clean, just wiping off the barrel shelf is NOT GOOD ENOUGH!!  Really get in the action and clean off that latch. Then, smoke or lipstick that latch and see what you have going on for engagement. Adjust as necessary.

Good luck,
 CW

[bootarcher]

I must say I really appreciate the help. Iam going to have to find a friend who knows what you folks are talking about because I really dont have a clue. Thanks, Hugh

[cwlongshot]

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,26264.0.html

This is a link to our FAQ's we are talking about. There is a wealth of information here that Tim, (quickdtoo) has put together for all of us. as you scroll thru you will find useful information directly pertaining to your issues. Hopefully this and your friend will be well armed to fix your issues. Either way, Please post back and let us know how it worked for you!!

 good luck,
 CW

[rickt300]

I have in the past shortened die bodies by grinding some off.  It doesn't hurt the dies usefullnes and allows you to turn the die in some hopefully to the point it needs to be.

[Steve P]

I agree with Rick.  A few passes on a lathe to flatten the bottom of the sizing die has worked for me several times.  I can adjust the die.  Cannot adjust the shell holder.

Steve

[Fred M]

Something to think about when you cut metal from the bottom of the die. One rev = 0.071" up or down. Or 0.00019" per degree.
I find that very difficult if I want to move the die say 0.003" down or up for that matter.

0.003" would mean you have to move the die to the left or right 15.9deg. Besides you have clearance in the threads and every adjustment you make requires to lock the die.

Cutting the top off the shell holder presents simular problems, since the stretch of the action is not constant, nor will the different loads stretch the cases the same.

I rather put a 0.003 shim under the case head. Or with a feeler gauge on top of the shell holder you can adjust the case to be longer. KISS is the name of the game.

[rickt300]

.003 might not get it in some cases, say you are using a Redding die, a RCBS press and a LEE shellholder?  Most dies have .2 of unthreaded length at a minimum so you are not actually cutting any threads.  Just make sure to deburr the inside of the die after taking .03 off the end of it and you will be fine.