Author Topic: Ejector / Extractor conversion  (Read 901 times)

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Offline Bearskinz

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Ejector / Extractor conversion
« on: January 21, 2009, 04:14:01 PM »
I recently acquired an SB2 Ultra in 243 Win and had issues with failure to eject. The FAQ posts are quite interesting. I called the factory to order replacements for the ejector parts and was told those were not available from the factory, but, since I was not the first to have that problem, they offered the extractor, its leaf spring, and a "cam extractor". Alas, my underlug has only three holes, not the six evident in the FAQ photos. It appears that the "cam extractor" needs two pins in the underlug to function properly.
a. Am I correct in understanding that to use these parts supplied by the factory, I will have to hog out the slot as described in the FAQs to provide space for the cam and also drill at least the one additional hole adjacent to the larger hole to act as a pivot for the cam?
b. Are one or both of the paired holes in the center of the underlug in the FAQs required to use only the extractor, or can they be omitted?
c. Is the Handi-Rifle exploded view from the factory a brilliant depiction of the complete assembly or a hopelessly confusing image having little to do with reality? 
d. Is the leaf spring the only spring required to make the extractor function properly?
e. Are dimensions available for locating the required hole pattern?
Your reply is eagerly awaited.

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2009, 05:47:51 PM »
You can order the ejector parts from Brownells if you want to keep it as an ejector, you can still use the ejector parts to create a hybrid ejector/extractor, that's covered in the same conversion in the FAQs, just add a short spring between the cam and the ejector, it will just extract case unless the case sticks, then it will eject it as the spring is compressed completely and the cam continues forcing the case out.

The factory ejector to conversion shows the necessary hole positions, you need one for the cam pivot and another to limit extractor travel, although I've done a couple without it. Having an extractor barrel simplifies the conversion, I just transfered the hole positions to a piece of plexiglas with 7/64" transfer punch to use as a template. I could do a tracing and post it, dunno if it can be printed to scale tho.

Tim
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain

Offline Bearskinz

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2009, 02:26:07 PM »
Thanks for taking the time to answer. Since the conversion is more complex with my style underlug, I think I'll try to conjur up a lift button out of odd components and go with the original ejector configuration. Perhaps the polishing and spring extension will help with sticky cases. Keep up the good work!

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2009, 02:54:31 PM »
You can make a lift button easily with a nail or small screw, Brownell's doesn't carry it any more.  :-\

Tim

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=676&m=6&mn=H&model=SB2+Handi-Rifle%2fH%26R+Ultra+
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain

Offline Bearskinz

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2009, 06:48:51 PM »
I haven't seen a drawing or photo showing the lift button. Dimensions would help as well as the spring/button interface details. Does anyone here have that info?

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2009, 07:25:28 PM »
There's a pic showing the relationship of all the actual ejector parts in the FAQs. The button is .170" tall, shank diameter is .121", and the "hat" is .026" thick x .205" wide.

Tim

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,26264.msg525466.html#msg525466
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Offline petemi

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2009, 02:56:35 AM »
The easiest thing is to just buy the barrel you want and sell the one you have.  Or trade.

Pete
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The growing Handi/Sportster/Pardner/Topper Family:  .22 WMR, .22-250. 223, Two Superlight 7mm-08s and one .243, .30-30,  .308, 32-20, 18 inch .356/.358 Win., Two 16.5 inch .357 Max., 18 inch 38-55 BC Carbine, 16.5 inch .445 Super Mag., .45LC, 16.5 and 22 inch .45-70s, .50 Huntsman SS, .410, 20 ga., 12 ga., 20 ga. Pardner Pump, Versa-Pack .410 - .22
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Offline Bearskinz

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2009, 02:35:36 PM »
"There's a pic showing the relationship of all the actual ejector parts in the FAQs. The button is .170" tall, shank diameter is .121", and the "hat" is .026" thick x .205" wide.

Tim  "

Roger that. TKS!

Bearskinz

Offline Bearskinz

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2009, 03:33:32 PM »
There's a pic showing the relationship of all the actual ejector parts in the FAQs. The button is .170" tall, shank diameter is .121", and the "hat" is .026" thick x .205" wide.

Tim

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,26264.msg525466.html#msg525466

Fabbed a new lift button using a nylon screw, drill press & fine file. Worked great! Zero FTE's !  Thanks so much for the info - you made my week!

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Ejector / Extractor conversion
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2009, 05:34:03 PM »
Glad ya got er whipped!!  ;)

Tim
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain