cleanshot

[jhm]

I have used the cleanshot in my .50 and use 90 to 100 gr. loose havnt used the pellets but have seen them but I heard they were not going to be around long because of a lawsuit with pyrodex and something about the plant they were being made in.  Someone else my know more about it to help you, I liked the cleanshot less smoke.   JIM

[outlawsix]

Clean shot has changed its name to American Pioneer Powder. The lawsuit concerned the shape of the pellets and the use of the word pellet in describing the product. They are called sticks and have a tappered shape now. Natchez shooters supply has them. Have been unable to find another source other than them so far. Haven't shot them yet though. Hope this helps.

[Bob_K]

Outlawsix is right on about the new company name and why they changed.  Consequently, my Cleanshot Pellets are over a year old.  I found them to be accurate in a T/C FireHawk.  My load is two 50 grain pellets, a 50/45 sabot I got off of eBay that was said to be made by Knight (but they were orange, not black), and a Sierra 300 grain .45 JSP pistol bullet.  My group is about 1.4" at 50 yards.  One thing about the Cleanshot pellets is they did not have a specific orientation they had to go in.  Just drop them in, seat the bullet/sabot, and apply just enough pressure to feel the pellets crush.

[savageT]

Bob K,
Did you say "CRUSH????Are you intentionally crushing those clean shot pellets?  I know that Pyrodex doesn't want their pellets to be crushed for fear of a hang-fire or poor ignition!


savageT

[Bob_K]

Yes, I meant crush the pellets.  This would be prohibited if they were Pyrodex since I think the black coating on the one end is black powder to help with ignition.  This is not the case with Cleanshot.  I add increasing pressure until I feel the pellets start to give way.  (Gentle crush, not violent CRUSH.)

[savageT]

Bob K,
Yes, I thought so!  Would it not be easier and perhaps more economical to switch to powders?  If you have a life's supply of pellets then say no more.  I use a mark on my ramrod and find that on occasion, I have to use a fair amount of pressure to "load to the line".  I am currently using Triple 7 with T/C's 245gr. HPT copper sabot.  I find them difficult to load and really have to pound them down on occasion!  I am planning on using a lubed patch between shots in the future.

savageT

[Bob_K]

Might be a mite cheaper, but then I'd have to measure/weigh each charge.  Then I'd have to get the powder out of the 4-N-1 container and into the barrel without spilling, under hunting conditions.  Is that little bit of advantage worth the cost?  Don't know.  I used loose powder this year, some of the last of my Black Mag 3.  I believe I have enough Black Mag for one more hunting season, then I'll shift to Cleanshot, either pellets or loose powder.  When that pound and a half is gone, I have Triple 7.  I'd more worried about shelf life than economy at this point.  My Black Canyon powder went bad the year after I bought it.

[savageT]

kenmc777777........
Check out the Hodgdon Powder site for information on Triple 7.
http://www.hodgdon.com/index.htm    Up at the top of the home page are their product tabs.  Just open the triple 7 tab and you'll find loading data on 2f and 3f powders.  Incidentally, they will be coming out with Triple 7 pellets in March 2003 according to their sources.  This stuff is really hot and you should use about 15% less triple 7 powder compared to other b/p or clean shot, pyrodex products.  That is about 10 grains by volume less on average 50 cal. load.  You also can use water clean up and don't need the standard black powder cleaning products.  It is less  caustic than b/p and substitutes, as there is no sulfur in the product.

savageT

[Underclocked]

savageT, if you mean it is less corrosive than the other subs, that is only true by comparison to Pyrodex and then not by much.  Triple7 is quite corrosive.

[savageT]

kenmc.....

With b/p or any substitutes it's wise to consider them all corrosive.  You want to clean your barrel and nipple inside and out with hot, soapy water and very hot, tap rinse. You can use one of the b/p cleaning products and dry and lube your gun ASAP.  I like to use Windex patches after soap and water, and follow up with Ballistol to displace any water and lubricate well.  Store your muzzle facing down and if you're storing it away for months at a time, it's best to check it again after a few weeks with a dry patch (checking for rust) and re-lube with REM-OIL or a great old lube is Vasoline.  Don't depend on products like Borebutter or Wonder lube to protect the bore over long periods of storage.
Just to finish up with a reminder........ Most oils and lubricants are petroleum based and you must remove all traces of them before reloading.  Good Luck!

savageT

[savageT]

kenmc,

1) For petroleum based products, try using Ronson Lighter Fluid (naptha),  Acetone, or rubbing Alcohol (in that order of preference).  Just be careful with these solvents on the stock finish.  Before loading up, just fire off a couple percussion caps to blow out any remaining oils, then you're set to go.

2)  Yes, for short term, you can use borebutter or wonderlube (just use Crisco), but any gun oil is better!

Let me know if I can be of help in the future.

Happy Holidays to you and yours,



savageT