Author Topic: sp101 vs model 60 (Read 2584 times)

greyling · « **on:** May 22, 2007, 10:21:32 AM »

I was at gander mountain (home of high prices) yesterday looking for a 2 inch stainless 38 revolver. I hear great things about the sp101 and the model 60 so I compared them side by side. the smith was great but the ruger had a really bad trigger. Is that typical? does it clean up significantly with and action job? any ideas of what one might expect to pay for a used version of either gun?

His lordship. · « **Reply #1 on:** May 26, 2007, 01:31:23 PM »

I have been thinking of either one of those myself. The Rugers can be worked on for triggers, but the Smith would be alot lighter for a carry gun. On the other hand...have seen some heavy guns carry well with a good holster. And the Ruger is a .357 magnum, as I recall.

PeterCartwright · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2007, 05:34:56 AM »

I see comparisons between these two great platforms frequently. Yes, the Ruger slicks up after it is shot a bit. It also responds well to a knowing hand. I would't want to carry the SP101 in a pocket, but then, I wouldn't choose to carry the Smith 60 that way, either. The Ruger is an inherently strong design. The model 60 is not a "weak" design, either. Both guns are capable of shooting tighter than most of us are capable of holding. For the most part, I think this is a "Ford" vs. "Chevy" discussion.

Having said all the above, if I were going to shoot .357's regularly, I'd choose the SP101 over the Model 60 every time. It's not just the weight difference. The flexible grip over Ruger's stud frame is very effective in soaking up recoil. I also like the broad sight picture offered by the SP. (But then, I have 50+ age eyes).

canon6 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 29, 2007, 02:01:02 PM »

I have had both and in my opinion the SP101 wins hands down,as has been said the S&W is lighter and for me there is the problem.My wife uses 357's in her SP101 and finds it acceptable, and in the 60 not so much , just my2c Doug

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #4 on:** May 29, 2007, 03:08:41 PM »

at one time ruger restricted the use of .357 to 125 gr. bullets or less , has that changed ? I have the smith , had the ruger long ago , i do carry the ss mod 638 in the front pocket ( most of the time a 38 air weight ) and the smith was thinne and fit better ! both are good guns

greyling · « **Reply #5 on:** May 29, 2007, 06:28:29 PM »

I"ve got a smith 686 and a ruger security 6 already, and the smith is nicer, but I try all me new loads on the ruger since it is indestructable. I was looking for something smaller to use as a carry gun. concealed holster, no pocket. I know the ruger is stronger, but the smith felt much botter in the hand and the trigger was light years ahead. it was not just smooth, but shorter too.
grips are easily changed, and if I get the ruger a trigger job is a must. I was mostly wondering if a trigger job can get the ruger up to smith standards, and if I can find a used ruger+trigger job and grips cheaper than I could find a m60. I like the idea of a ruger better. it seems to have more fans.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #6 on:** June 03, 2007, 12:52:21 AM »

ive owned a few of each and they both have there place. The smith is definately a more refined gun and in my opinion the lighter weight and smothness and slightly smaller size make it hands down the better ccw gun. The rugers stoutness makes it possibly a better trail gun.

Old Griz · « **Reply #7 on:** June 05, 2007, 06:43:12 PM »

I am a huge S&W fan, and you can't beat their DA revolvers. Except for the J-frames. The Model 60 with .357 loads is punishing. If all you are going to shoot is .38s you'll be OKay. However, if you plan to shoot .357s, the SP101 wins hands down. After all, it was designed to be a .357 from the beginning. The .357 J-frames were .38s that were beefed up to compete with the SP101 because S&W didn't have anything like it. (Nor did anyone else.) It's a small tank, too. Yes, you will need a trigger job on the Ruger, but that's pretty standard with Rugers. Make sure they do a REAL trigger job, too. Some jerks just cut off a couple of coils off the main spring and call it a trigger job. (And charge you for it!)

Shawnee Gene · « **Reply #8 on:** June 29, 2007, 12:44:23 AM »

Greyling, I'll get in on this. My carry gun is a S&W 37(12 Oz's!), in which I utilize standard pressure loads. The gun is not rated for +P. My open carry guns are Rugers. My 2c.

papajohn428 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 30, 2007, 06:49:49 AM »

I contemplated the same choice for years........then bought neither! I decided I liked the Smith's trigger enough to need it, so I bought a PD-used 3-inch S&W Model 65, and got exactly what I wanted. It was designed for 357's, has enough weight to make it fun to shoot with all but the nastiest loads, there are a gazillion kinds of stocks made for it, and the fixed sights are all I need in a CCW gun, once I painted them black. Eventually, I did my best-ever trigger job, shaved off the hammer spur, and reshaped the front sight. Now it's PERFECT!

Papajohn

canon6 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 30, 2007, 06:30:08 PM »

I did the same thing but with a Model 13, 3inch,bobbed hammer ,trigger job,Wolff springs.

Doug

hrminer92 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 03, 2007, 04:46:39 PM »

Quote from: Old Griz on June 05, 2007, 06:43:12 PM

Yes, you will need a trigger job on the Ruger, but that's pretty standard with Rugers. Make sure they do a REAL trigger job, too. Some jerks just cut off a couple of coils off the main spring and call it a trigger job. (And charge you for it!)

what is all is normally done in a trigger job, how does it change the shooting characteristics, and how much should it cost?

I got a sp101 and was wondering if it's something I should be looking into.

Thanks.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #12 on:** August 13, 2007, 09:08:13 AM »

hrminer92 , put about 500 rounds thru. the Ruger , two things will happen first the action will smooth itself and second you will master the gun !
At that point you will know if you really need a trigger job ! most likely not !
I know this will get me stoned but at most a trigger job is nothing more than wearing in the gun , either by shooting ( dry fire helps also ) or the gun smith using tools and skill to do so ! either way the mating surfaces of the action are polished !
with regard to springs , i feel the factory put in the gun what they feel it should have , as we know springs wear , that said if you shoot it the spring will " get right " if you cut it at some point it will be too weak before it should !
I base this on two Rugers i have both redhawks , one had a good trigger job the other did not , after alot of rounds the gun with out the TJ shoots great the other shoots good also but no better ! If anything the gun with the TJ is light for the field .
The TJ was done to get ready for a hunting trip , the time frame did not allow for enough shooting to wear in the gun , so i opted for the easy way !
and last if its a carry gun , be careful ! , you want a gun that works every time , not a target gun !
the above works for either gun !

teddy12b · « **Reply #13 on:** August 13, 2007, 09:40:37 AM »

I've only looked at these in the stores, but it's a Chevy vs Ford debate. Both are fine guns with outstanding reputations towards their strengths. Go with whatever feels better in your hand.

454Puma · « **Reply #14 on:** September 05, 2007, 10:28:07 AM »

SHOOTALL
I agree with you as I own a SP101 357 Mag-sure Rugers trigger are not as nice a the S&W but then again the S&W will not shoot the same rounds as the Ruger can or as long! And that's what they are made for shooting -alot! The more I shoot mine the better it feels! Pay the money up front for the S&W or shoot it through the Ruger!:)

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #15 on:** September 06, 2007, 10:56:49 PM »

As to shooting in a gun heres my thoughts. If you take two metal surfaces one with a bur on it and shoot the crap out of the gun it may get slightly better but all your doing is making a matching grove in one surface that the bur rides on. If you take a gun apart and polish it your removing all the burs and will get much better results. Another thing even with a double action you want a crisp sear break. You need your gun to go off the same way every time! You will notice a pour breaking trigger even in da in a comp gun if you shoot it enough. In sa you can shoot till the sun goes out and you will never get rid of trigger creap. Well polished surfaces and proper hammer sear relationship will allow you then to lower your trigger pull in sa and da and still have reliable primer ignition. This is especially important in these recent days of shortages on federal primers. Personaly i just cant see putting up with a couple thousand rounds of shooting a terrible trigger hoping it gets better anyway. All your doing in my opinion is picking up bad shooting habbits. Your much more likely to get an at least useable trigger and action with a smith but even them have needed work in the more recently produced guns. I might get some slack for this statement but I own and buy a pile of rugers and havent seen one either da or sa that had a useable trigger pulll out of the box. Once a guy gets used to glass clean breaking under 3lb triggers and smooth da pulls a out of the box ruger just isnt going to cut it anymore. I have probably over 50 handguns in the safe and theres not a one of them that hasnt had action work done to them with the exception of a couple older smiths.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #16 on:** September 07, 2007, 07:26:57 AM »

i find it interesting that the only guns that didn't need a trigger job were older ( assumed well used ) guns , I rest my case !
as far as the grove , maybe , maybe not a lot would depend on hardness of each part and where the force was being applied ! anyway it would smooth out even if a slight groove appeared it may even help with the parts moving the same path each shot who knows ? but i suspect more guns go thru. their useful life with out a trigger job !
and who wants a less than 3lb trigger on a carry gun ? You have some valid points if the weapon is to be used in competition or only target shooting , but for self defense or hunting i would not want to light a trigger . also the money spent on practice would most likely have a positive effect on the out come in either hunting or self defense .

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #17 on:** September 07, 2007, 11:35:18 PM »

I guess i dont understand the want for a heavier trigger on a hunting or defense gun then a plinking gun. I want all my triggers to be close to the same and i want them all at around 2-3 lbs. The last place i want to deal with a bad trigger is when im trying to make a 50 yard shot on a deer or under the pressure of an encounter with a bad guy. As to an accidental discharge KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER until your going to shoot. If you practice this all the time it will come natural. A 3lb trigger isnt going to go off by air blowing accross it it takes a deliberate pull. As to the older guns having better triggers it isnt because there used and wore in. Grab a smith from back in the 50s that is unshot or barely shot and run the action. that smothness came from hand fitting and polishing parts right at the factory. The light sa pull came from gunsmiths that werent worried about some idiot suing them for making there gun work like it should. I agree that alot of guns go through life with a unworked on trigger but then about 90 percent of the people dont have a clue as to how to shoot anyway. Theres no way a handgun can be shot accurately off hand with a 6 lb trigger or a trigger with lots of creap in it. By accurate i dont mean hitting a coffee can at 25 yards i mean shooting 2 inch off hand groups at 25 yards. A level of accuracy youd better be able to shoot if you think your capable of wandering into the hunting woods and making a 50 yard off hand shot at a deer under the pressure of a hunting situation. Trigger control is the heart of handgun shooting. Its the heart of any shooting and if you dealing with a heavy trigger with creap in it you are doing nothing but learning poor trigger control. If you doubt it sight your gun in with a 6 lb creapy trigger and shoot a group then have a trigger job done and see how much your point of aim changes. Shooting a da gun thousands of times will smothen things up a tad but will never do much for pull weight or creap. At least not until you wore your gun out enough to make it questionable in reliability. Personaly i dont understand why anyone would want to live with a bad trigger. Id rather have two guns set up right then 10 that werent. Guys wont bat an eyelash at spending 25 bucks a box for ammo but cringe at spending a 100 to make there gun shootable. that hundered bucks will go a hell of alot further toward making you a good shot then those 200 rounds of ammo you bought to practice with. Ive bought recent rugers with triggers that measured 8+ lbs and had tons of creap. I have to wonder how many heads of game a guy that owns a gun like that actually takes. I know i couldnt hit the broad side of a barn door with one and would be better off using it as a club. As to shooting in a gun take two pieces of steal that are rough and rub them together. I dont care if you do it for a year you will never see a smooth polished surface. If that was the case care motors would wear in not wear out.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2007, 07:47:15 AM »

3lb trigger is ok or a 2.5 but on a cold day with gloves on anything less could be a problem . the 2 trigger jobs i have on revolvers both got the pull weight to below 2 lbs and no creep , i don't care to hunt with a gun that light and don't !
if you do by all means have at it ! i have put over 700 rounds thru. the revolver i hunt with and Know the trigger and it shoots well for me ! the trigger is much better after shooting now than when it was new !
I guess we will have to admit that some require more help from the trigger than others !

Swampman · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2007, 07:50:43 AM »

I've had both and the Ruger is just too heavy.