Very nice group. You should be very happy with those results.
There is a world of difference between factory and custom minimum spec chambers. Most people never have the chance to see how much difference. I've tried almost all the 338 cal bullets in my 338-06, including all the Nosler brand weights from 180 to 250 gr and the Hornady 225 SP is the only one that will put 5 into less than a quarter at 100 m. I wish it would do better than a pattern with the 180's.
I really wish the Nosler 210 Part would shoot well. I've shot up 3 boxes of that bullet, at least, trying everything I know and everything I could pick out of several other brains, all the powders in that burning range and all the different brand primers and seating ranges without getting anything below a 2" group, including sticking the bolt a couple of times as I was increasing the powder charge.
Oh...I have to update the load info...I'm now using 59 gr Varget at 2735 f/s at 3.55" OAL with the same components I mentioned before. Thats about 52,000 psi according to my Load Disk. Still getting 5 in a quarter with the 225 Hornady. I could go up a couple more grains but all it would do is increase the pressure without substantially increasing the velocity. Remember the 10/5 rule.
I've talked to someone at Redding, could be Bob, that was very knowledgeable, about their Competition shell holders and I aquired 3 from 0.015" to 0.0.25" oversized that I use for various calibers. Having the correct length sized case goes a long way toward increasing case life. You only need 0.002" sqeeze on the base and 0.003" squeeze on the neck to get the ammo to fit the chamber and have a good hold on the bullet. Neck sizing has it's avantages and it's problems, I've used both depending on that the rifle happens to like.
Neck turning for a factory chamber and for a custom chamber are horses of a different breed. For the factory chamber it is just to get an even release on the bullet, for a custom minspec chamber it is to obtain the desired release gap so the pressures stay within reason and the accuracy is at maxinum potential. Although I have pushed those limits severely at times in the past, I don't recommend beginners even look at that door.
For those novices I will list what I think are a few "minimum" tools to obtain and a few thoughts:
Reducing the pressure 10% will only reduce the velocity 5%. That means dropping from 55,000 psi to 50,000 psi will drop 3000 f/s velocity only 150 f/s, from 3000 f/s to 2850 f/s. Run those figures through an exterior data program and you will see just how little difference it makes at 300 yards. BUT...the numbers are a powerful whiskey talk factor.
65,000 to 70,000 psi is where brass dies.., but you can run brass at 55,000 all day for the most part, without causing too much pain. Stick with SAMMI specs until you know something.
You can have accuracy or very high velocity but neither at the same time with few exceptions and the best accuracy usually comes pretty close to the SAMMI max point with factory chambers. Minspec chambers are another story. And there are always exceptions. I'm not talking exceptions, I'm talking average everyday what you can expect. Exceptions can get you in very deep ratschat.
Measure the point where exery bullet ogive touches the lands and record it. The points are all different within and between brands.
Ball mic, 1" mic, or combination tool. I have at least a dozen cheapo 1" mic's scattered around my digs, most I paid no more than 10 bucks. I also have two of the high priced spread that measure 0.0001".
4" and 6" dial and digital calipers. Again, I have 3 of the small and two of the longer. You only need one really.
Stoney gauges. Buy two sets each, their cheap. It is much easier to get the shoulder length and OAL set up with these gauges. Also get a Stoney or Sinclair bullet seating depth gauge so you can have a start point without guessing.
Chronograph. I have two, a Beta Chrony and a Oehler 33. They will open your eyes to the real facts.
Case and neck trimmers. I have so many of those things I get lost, but I have a Wilson set up on a block of hardwood with a bolt through the block so I can mount it to my bench quickly. I also have lots of Lee trimmers, Lyman, Redding and others. They all get used at one time or another. I use a Sinclair neck turner most of the time and have a Hornady Hot shot also plus Forester and Wilson setups. They all work great
Primer pocket uniformers. Get carbide for use in a drill and all sizes for pistol and rifle.
Flash hole deburring tool. You only have to debur once and it is well worth it. You'd be surprised how much more uniform the chrono numbers will be.
A couple of deburring tools. I have several and use the Wilson and RCBS the most seems like. Lee has good cheap ones but they wear out over time.
One of the bullet runout measuring devices. Sinclair has several as do all the other "supply houses" and get a couple extra 1" stroke dial indicator while you're at it. 10 bucks at any of the cheapo places. They get dropped or stomped on once in a while.
Some kind of reloading software. I have several internal load programs including a couple old Powley DOS programs, Load with a Disk, and bunch of external programs that calculate drop, energy etc., at various ranges. These programs are a must if you are to go very far down this road.
I am fortunate in having a lathe and mill, so I can do many things not available to the average gunner, and a 100 M range right outside my loading room. 50 years of doing this thing doesn't make me any kind of expert, but it does give me a very deep range of experience's to stand upon.
I've been a 'Catt'r all my life, wildcatter that is, and while I have several 'cats now I don't recommend going that way for a newbee. Too many excellent standard calibers to mess with the expense of a wildcat and there are too many excellent 'smiths that will cut you a minspec chamber to fit your loading tools or cut you a minspec sizer along with the chamber to deal with something other than the BS factor. When I wear out a 'cat barrel now, the receiver just goes in the drawer with the other used receivers and I buy another Savage barrel or NEF rifle. If you can't get it done with a single shot you need to re-evaluate your whole proceedure with an eye toward placing the bullet right the first time and forget about spray'n'and pray'n'.
Some of the places I frequent for supplies: Everytime something new comes out I can't help but buy it. That is why I have so much "extra stuff", mostly getting in the way, but it is all usefull at sometime or another.
Sinclair Int. and Brownells for accuracy products. There are more places online, but I started ordering from them way back in the day and they keep coming up with new and better, high quality products at a very good prices so I will stick with them.
Natchez, Midway, Lock, stock and Barrel, Midsouth all have everything you need. I just shop for the best price at the time I want something. I buy bullets, powder and primers at the local BiMart at the same price as online including shipping.
KBC tools, CDCO, Grizzly Industrial, Victor, J&L industrial and a few others for metal working tools. Grizzly has some ten dollar 1" x 0.0001 mics that I just keep buying. They are just as adequate as my Mitutoyo and Starretts. I like KBC tools the best for selection and price for the more expensive tools.
Again, everything I've said can be argued. I've tested all of it and the most I can say is it's repeatable, but you might get other results also. Run some tests yourself, on your rifle, changing only one parameter at a time. You will be suprised at the outcome. It takes quite a bit of learning to get to a place where it all falls into place. You have to rely on professional information in the manuals until you understand what the rest of the story is. When you get to the "I wonder..." stage you have arrived at the beginning of that very long and winding road.
Enjoy NFG
