Author Topic: Brownell's OXPHO BLUE CREME  (Read 4361 times)

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Offline quickdtoo

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Brownell's OXPHO BLUE CREME
« on: October 02, 2007, 02:59:10 PM »
I've read a lot of recommendations for Brownell's Oxpho Blue, so I ordered some of the creme last week to blue a frame that I bought recently, the one someone welded on, so it needed to be completely reblued, not just touched up, followed the directions with one exception, I heated the frame as recommended by gunnut69 in the Gunsmithing forum. It came out very good, at least as good as some of the worst blued frames that come from H&R.

Tim

 
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain

Offline MSP Ret

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Re: Brownell's OXPHO BLUE CREME
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2007, 03:06:46 PM »
It looks pretty good Tim. please let us know how it wears and holds up....<><....:)
"Giving up your gun to someone else on demand is called surrender. It means that you have given up your ability to protect yourself to a power that is greater than you." - David Yeagley

Offline Fred M

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Re: Brownell's OXPHO BLUE CREME
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2007, 03:26:52 PM »
Tim.
That blueing looks very good. I have some Birchwood Casy "Perma Blue" cream that works very well and is easy to go over again when needed. Not too bad.

Brownell has some small rust blue kits but they are not allowed to send it accross the border because of Hazmat. That stuff will do a professional
blue job on small parts like your action.
Fred M.
From Alberta Canada.

Offline bluebayou

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Re: Brownell's OXPHO BLUE CREME
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2007, 03:33:18 PM »
Looks pretty good, do you have to burnish it like the Birchwood Casey Cold Blue? (not recommended except for touchups in my book).

I have a pistol that I would like to refinish. 

Offline lonewolf5348

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Re: Brownell's OXPHO BLUE CREME
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2007, 04:12:19 PM »
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a380/lonewolf5347/gripsafety001.jpg
Tim: if you ever get a chance pick up a small bottle of laurel mountain forge browning chemical follow the instruction to rust brown:you will need to make a sweat box or use a pale of water and a light bulb then hang the part or parts and cover with a piece of plastic.I would say after three hours boil some distilled water and drop the part in for 5 min: repeat for about 6 applications card between coats.
The part I posted is a grip safety of off a colt commander back in the 80's and let me tell you it was rusted and pitted:I took it down with 150 emery used a dremel don't polish higher then 320 and start the rust process:I think the part speaks for itself
I never tried the oxpho cream your part did come out nice also ;I used this chemical LMF for browning but was shocked when I dump the part in distilled water.
I tested it with 0000 steel wool to card the last finish with gun oil this stuff will not rub off at all

Offline quickdtoo

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Re: Brownell's OXPHO BLUE CREME
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2007, 04:25:24 PM »
I've used both kinds of B/C blueing, the Perma blue and Super Blue, I think the Oxpho blue is better stuff, the frame took 3 burnishings to get it where it is, I did 6 or 7 burnishings on the my 30-30 Handi barrel to get it almost as dark and consistent as the Orxpho Blue.

Lonewolf, I've got some LMF browning solution, have done several BP barrels using it, good stuff, but I don't want a browned Handi, might do a BC someday tho, specially if I ever get the brass trigger guard and spacer for it!! ;)

Tim
"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" -  Mark Twain